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PLANTING A CHRISTMAS TREE
Nothing is more
rewarding than planting a tree and watching it grow. By following
the eleven steps outlined below, you can ensure decades of enjoyment
from your newly planted tree.
HOW TO
PLANT A LIVE CHRISTMAS TREE
If you have decent
weather before Christmas, it's a good idea to proceed with Steps 1
through 5 below. That way, if weather worsens while your live tree
is in the house, you'll have the hardest part of the planting job
already done. To make your planting job easier after Christmas,
cover your pile of soil to keep it dry and help insulate it from
freezing temperatures.
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1. Mark the Spot
Phone ONE CALL a week ahead of planting
and ask them to mark all the utility lines in the area where you
want to plant your tree. Also ensure that your tree won't be located
in a right-of-way or easement, where it could later be cut down
without your consent.
Using a large enough marker you can see from a distance, mark the
spot for the tree. Look at it from several different angles to make
sure you like the location. |
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2. Cut the Circle
Using a spade or shovel, cut a circle in
the sod twice as wide as the top of the root ball.
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3. Remove the Sod
If you have another spot in your lawn
that needs some grass, remove the sod in easy to handle sizes.
Otherwise, just strip off the grass and place it in a pile by itself
for later composting or disposal.
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4. Prepare to Dig
Make sure the digging edge on your
shovel is sharp. Use a grinder or file to sharpen the shovel if it
has a blunt digging edge. It's much easier to dig with a sharp
shovel.
A heavy tarp next to the planting hole provides a place to pile
soil. It will also make final cleanup easier and neater.
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5. Digging the Hole
The best way to dig a hole is by
starting at the center and working outward. As you're digging,
separate the soil into two piles: Good soil to be used for planting
in one pile, and bad soil and rocks in a second pile, for later
disposal. Dig the hole the same depth as the soil ball, or a bit
shallower -- it's better to have the top of the ball higher than the
surrounding soil, than too deep.
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6. Setting the Tree
Place the tree in the hole. Move the
tree by lifting the root ball -- don't yank on the tree trunk, since
this can loosen the root ball and damage tree roots. Ensure that the
tree is at the proper depth, with the top of the root ball slightly
above the surrounding soil. Try to get the tree to stand straight on
its own. Lightly pack soil evenly around the base of the root ball
to make the tree straight. Check straightness from at least two
sides. |
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7.
Rope and Twine
It's important
to remove all the rope and twine tied around the tree trunk, since
this can lead to girdling (choking) as the tree trunk and roots expand.
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8. Removing Future
Constrictions
Use bolt cutters
to remove at least the top half of the wire tree basket. While
removing the entire basket might be ideal, it usually isn't
practical, since complete removal may cause the root ball to fall
apart.
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9. Burlap and
Synthetic Burlap
Regular brown
burlap will usually rot away, but it's still desirable to uncover
the top of the root ball for the best water infiltration. Synthetic
burlap ("leno") and treated green burlap should be removed from as
much of the ball as possible, without damaging the integrity of the
root ball.
Watch for extremely sharp "pinning nails" used by nurseries to hold the burlap
in place. |
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10. Finish Planting
the Tree
Backfill the planting
hole 1/3 of the way and lightly compact the soil, ensuring the tree
is still straight. Backfill the hole another 1/3 and lightly compact
the soil again. Flood the planting hole with water at this point,
and allow standing water to drain before you finish backfilling the
hole with soil. Apply a couple inches of mulch to finish the
planting job.
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11. To Stake or not
to Stake
Generally speaking,
trees under 6 feet tall don't usually need staked, unless they were
loose in the soil ball or are planted in extremely windy locations.
If you decide to stake a tree, check the guy wires occasionally to
ensure the tree trunk isn't being girdled. All stakes and guy wires
should be completely removed after one year.
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