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Frequently Asked Questions about Trees

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Visitors to the TreeBoss.net website have emailed with various questions over the past years. Some of the more important tree topics have been the basis for creating new webpages, especially when several photos will help illustrate the problem.

This webpage will be used to answer tree questions with shorter answers. You are invited to send your tree question to TreeBoss. Check back periodically for newly posted answers to tree questions. Due to the volume of questions, only certain ones will be answered.

Tree  F. A. Q.

• I have a cherry tree that took a very hard hit in the recent snow New!
• We have an Oak tree that has broken off a huge branch New!
• Is it possible to transplant a 30-40 foot tree? New!
• What kind of tree is this? New!
• I have 4 large pin oak trees in my front yard and have a difficult time keeping grass in this area New!
• In the snowstorm to the northeast my dogwood took a major hit
• The tree in our deck has grown 'too big for its britches' so what can we do?
• Our Modesto ash tree was planted about 5 feet from our foundation
• Today we had a rather large storm hit our area
• I just noticed this dark brown blackish growth on some of the limbs of my tree
• What do I need to keep in mind or add to soil when planting an evergreen in October in Middle Tennessee
• I noticed that something is chewing the ends of the branches of my very old Oak tree
• Will damage of these old trees/roots kill the trees and have potential to die and fall on my house
• We just purchased a oak tree which is about 15 feet tall
• Our trees are dropping black things on our driveway and leaving black specks
• My husband was going to JUST trim our tree
• We have a very large Sycamore tree that looks good but is dropping green limbs
• Last year deer rubbed on my 3-year-old weeping willow tree
• We bought 20 aspen trees in February
• We got a maple tree out of the woods behind our yard
• We bought a large burgundy maple tree last week and dug the hole
• Dug up an orange tree and replanted it at my house 3 weeks ago. It looks dead
• I have two very large silver maple trees, now all the bark is falling off and down to bare wood
• I live in Laredo, Texas. I have a two-year-old Texas Ash that had started to bud in late January
• I have a Honey Locust tree that I planted last year and was wondering if I could dig this tree up
• We have a tree thats growing crooked in our frontyard, what can I do to fix it
• My neighbor has a very large spruce tree and the roots have come onto my property
• We are interested in purchasing a large shade tree for parents in Chewelah, WA
• My mountain ash tree is about three years old and will not grow
• We are trying to find the value of a 300 year old 60-inch caliper Valley oak
• The electric company contracted with a company to trim trees
• I'm trying to plan an outdoor spring party after the 15-year-old Bradford Pear in my yard blooms are gone
• I have an apple tree and two cherry trees that are dying
• An apple and a pear recently had extensive bark removed by rabbits
• We have two older cherry trees which have some large knuckles
• We want to level off the ground around our pine tree
• My swamp maple has broken off a huge branch
• A tree in front of my house is dropping berries that stain the finish on my car
• I had a teenager mow and trim my yard while I was away and he whipped the bark on a couple of my young aspen trees
• I have a beautiful maple tree in front of my yard
• I planted 3 Pyramidal European Hornbeams
• I live in Ohio and my oak isn’t doing well
• I started a Northern Red Oak from seed
• About one year ago we planted shrubs
• I have a what I believe a Mondale pine tree that is three years old
• My parents have a walnut tree in their front yard
• Our dwarf fruit trees were doing well until this year, now they are dead or dying
• I developed a severe case of contact dermatitis after purchasing and spreading dyed red mulch
• I just had two Silver Maple trees removed
• I normally buy my mulch in bags from our local Scout Troop or High School
• I was wondering if you could help with my tree problem
• Something black appeared on my pear tree
• We had a Maple tree that died about 5 years ago and had the stump ground down
• I have a cherry tree that has yellow and red cherries
• We have a 4 year old Maple Crimson Royal Red and many of the top branches did not leaf out this year
• I have a 2 year old Modesto Ash that seems to be growing on top faster than its trunk can support it
• I have a yellow locust tree and it looked great a few days ago but now it has turned brown and droopy
• I have a Blue Spruce that continues to grow outward and not up
• A light sticky substance is coating everything on the ground from our two ash trees
• I have been having water seepage into my basement/foundation
• We have two large walnut trees in our backyard
• I have a maple that was damaged recently
• We purchased our home 17 years ago and a beautiful 30 ft Maple tree
• We have some sort of Maple tree that we want to trim
• What is the proper way and time of year for trimming my newly planted Magnolia?
• I am having my house leveled
• Recent snow and ice storms have severely damaged our Flowering Pear
• Pine tree that was coming out the top of an Alberta Spruce
• A very old oak tree in our back yard is missing a large hunk of bark
• I went to a local nursery to buy a pineapple guava fruit tree and they told me I need 2 trees in order to get fruit
• I have a very large pine tree that has dripped sap all over my patio furniture
• I had a sweet gum tree cropped way back
• About 2 years ago we purchased a tri-color beech
• I have a southern magnolia that was planted in Zone 5 about 10 years ago
• I have several Rose Of Sharons, when should I trim them
• We have several apple trees and a couple of cherry trees damaged by cicadas
• I have three very large trees that have sawdust at the base
• Silver maple that appears to be bleeding sap and it is attracting bees and flies
• When is the best time to trim the lower branches of an apple tree
• I have a beautiful Tri-color Beech planted 5½ feet off the front of my home
• I have two Bradford pear trees that had blight last year
• One of my trees has a branch of leaves that is turning yellow
• We have two 10-year-old weeping cherry trees that do not weep
• We have a 15 year old Bradford Pear
• We have a dogwood planted in front of our house
• My husband and I planted two pin oaks in our backyard
• Had 2 estimates from reputable tree services. One recommends topping
• The neighbors have a hard white mold growing on a maple stump
• I have an aspen tree with a rope cutting into the bark
• After a freeze last winter it is not growing or showing any leaves above the 3-foot mark
• 20 year old sugar maple that has split-off a quarter of the tree
• I am having a BIG problem with Trees of Heaven
• I have a large tree in my backyard that has a split in the trunk?
• What time of the year is best - for trimming a very old honey locust tree?
• what we think is an ash tree was mostly dead
• I have six 14 ft tall white pines and use a 10 foot ladder to stand on to trim the tops
• The bark at the base of the trunk on our 10-year old Red Oak is splitting and falling off
• lots of inner Pine needles have just recently turned yellow and shed
• I just planted an Austrian pine 10 feet from a buried gas line
• I am replacing a Bradford Pear with another tree in front of my very small townhome
• Are the fruit on a weeping cherry tree edible?
• We are replacing trees in our condominium complex
• An oak tree is growing right next to my foundation
• What zone is okay for planting a Norfolk Pine outside?
• I had two very small White oak saplings growing in pots on my deck
• Are the needles on a Washington Hawthorn tree poisonous?
• 3 of my Japanese Maples had the bark chewed away around the entire circumference of the tree
• We have a large Austrian Pine infected with Diplodia tip blight
• I have a mature red oak with three trunks that create a reservoir in the middle that holds water
• Can I top a Norfolk Pine without killing it?
• When a Fraser fir tree is a cut Christmas tree does it have a chance to be planted back and grow again?
• I have a HUGE black walnut tree in my backyard
• My family came across a tree covered in brilliant red berries
• Recent winter storm in Kentucky damaged our river birch
• I have to replace a very old Post Oak tree which has died
• Should I cut off the water sprouts on my fruitless plum trees?
• Would like to know how and when to trim a ChinaBerry tree
• in the process of purchasing a small older suburban house on a hillside
• I had a question about cloning trees
• Honey locust trees along our driveway are beginning to heave the asphalt
• I need a tree that will keep a small root area
• mature walnut tree in the garden with bark damage
• We love your website and have a few questions
• I have a tree that I can't identify
• How far up should I trim the branches off my two Washington Hawthorn trees?
• What is the tree in my back yard that drops large, long, flat, dark brown pods?
• How long does fresh mulch from ground stumps have to age?
• What are these seeds exploding from trees?
• What is the proper way to trim my white dogwood tree?
• My Bradford Pear trees look like they need to be shaped
• I have a honey locust tree with problems
• how can I winterize my evergreen trees?
• planting seed from a sycamore tree
• tree damage from Hurricane Ike
• rows of small holes in the bark
• burning tree roots
• bottom branches cut off
• bee hive inside a branch
• stubs for climbing
• trying to keep a mimosa alive in zone 5
• two types of maple trees

A: Most cherry trees seem to be pretty resilient, at least in their younger years. Therefore, I would try to affect a remedy, as opposed to removing the tree, since you can always take it out at a later date. (Pictures always help me with these sorts of questions).
The process of pruning should be done in the following stages:
1) Remove any dead, crossing (rubbing) or splintered branches, always cutting back to right above a side branch or bud (that is pointed outward from the center of the tree). Slightly slant any larger horizontal cuts to discourage water from sitting on them.
2) Even up the remaining branches to shape the tree the best you can, again removing crossing branches and inward-growing branches first. (In extreme cases, you might try to 'lollipop' the tree into a drastically new and reduced size, resembling a ball on a stick, or round lollipop).
3) Try to find an old broom stick that you can use as a makeshift "splint" in order to direct one of the more pliable side branches in a vertical direction. Younger branches are more flexible than older, woodier branches. Don't expect to get a branch completely vertical this first year, just get one headed in the right direction so it can eventually takeover as the new "leader."
4) Apply tree fertilizer in the spring just as new growth is about to pop. Be sure to water the tree periodically through any drought periods to encourage its vigor. Younger cherry trees in particular can be very thirsty, especially the first year they are planted.

A: It appears by the callusing activity around that wound that the branch came off at least 5 or 10 years ago. That new growth around the wound is the tree's effort to close-over, or in tree lingo, 'compartmentalize' the wound. To help that effort along it would be a good idea to remove the taller splintered portions that stick-up beyond the callusing on all sides, be very careful not to wound that new growth with errant cuts. This will allow the new bark to grow over the wound instead of obstructing its progress. Painting large wounds like that is not recommended. Back in the old days cement was used to fill cavities in trees, and there again, it was kept just inside the level where that (bark) callus tissue wants to grow. A local tree surgeon uses spray foam insulation in a can to fill deep cavities, and I see no reason why that would cause any harm if you have cavities that remain after removing the splintered areas. It is dangerous working from ladders without safety lines, so consider hiring a professional arborist for the job.

A: Even very large trees can be moved successfully by companies with the right equipment and experience. The two major issues are #1 cost, and #2 access. Even assuming you have the budget and find the right company, by your description, item #2 access, is going to be the problem. Ideally, a root ball is dug in a circular fashion around a tree, requiring some space beyond that earth ball, on all sides, to excavate the ball. Trees that are close to buildings create real problems in that regard. 

Q: From my written description that follows, what kind of tree is this? The tree get very little brown jagged balls on it and they fall off in the fall. They get stuck in the grass and are very hard to clean up.

A: If I were to make a wild guess, it would be a Sweet Gum (LIQUIDAMBER styraciflua) and those are 'gumballs.' The spiney balls are about two-inches in diameter and have spikes emanating from all sides. If my guess is correct, the tree also has protruding surface roots and star-shaped leaves that turn multi-colored (red, purple, and yellow) in the fall, as you see in the photo.

A: Having that many large Pin Oaks in your front yard has created a hostile environment for a lawn, due to root competition and heavy shade. Oaks aren't as "surface rooted" as Maples, but they still compete for moisture. Leaving leaves on the lawn for any period of time will also limit success in growing a lawn since grass can be suffocated, so it is good you are keeping them picked-up.
(Photo: Young pin oak tree)

If you are set on having a lawn, there are several things you can do:
1) Trimming: Raising-up and thinning-out the branches on your trees. Raising-up because a Pin Oak's lower branches tend to droop over time. Thinning-out will help let sunlight down through the trees.
2) Removal: Eliminating some of the trees to allow more sunlight to reach the lawn. If you do remove trees, be sure to grind the stumps out and remove all major roots as well.
3) Watering: Be sure to water your front lawn thoroughly at least once a week during dry weather in the growing season.
4) Grass: Only plant shade tolerant varieties. Mow the grass at the highest lawnmower setting possible without allowing the grass to flop over, since longer grass blades intercept more sunlight. Longer grass also has deeper roots.
5) Soil Test: You mentioned you used "lye" but did you mean lime? It is best to take soil samples from various spots in the front yard, mix them together, and send them to a soil lab for a report on what your soil may need.

A: It appears the tree has already lifted the floor boards surrounding the trunk, damaging the deck's floor and making it somewhat dangerous to traverse. The tree is a Silver Maple that really has grown 'too big for its britches' so there is also an extensive surface root system radiating out from the trunk, in the areas you cannot see just beneath the floor boards. Therefore, the only solution (besides removing the tree or the deck) would be a total rebuild of the deck, with a larger tree hole and a higher floor elevation, to allow for future root and trunk growth.

A: If it was my tree it would already be gone! Plantings close to a house can have limited lifespans, especially the larger growing varieties. Foundation plantings often need renovated every 15 to 20 years. And yes, changes in moisture levels from tree roots close to a foundation can cause wet-dry (swell-shrink) hydraulics to occur in soils. Large shade trees should be planted a minimum of 15 feet from a house, and on small properties it is best to plant only compact trees and dwarf varieties. People often plant the wrong tree since they desire rapid growth and quick shade. This results in the sort of problem you are now experiencing with your Modesto Ash. In the northeastern US, the Silver Maple has commonly been "that tree" -- very fast growth -- quickly resulting in huge problems. Often times these Maples are "topped" (like the one in the photo was several years prior to the photo being taken) instead of the better choice -- removal. Then these monsters can be replaced with the right tree for the location.

Q: Today we had a rather large storm hit our area. My neighbor's tree was hit by a bolt of lightning. Afterward, there was a foamy looking substance accumulating at the bottom of the tree. What is this? It was a 4-story tree and the lightning damage was only visible the top 5-6 branches. Not sure if this is relevant, but it was still raining at the time. Thanks - Elizabeth

A: When trees are struck by lightning, the powerful electric charge causes a super-heating of the tree's sap, often causing the tree to split and/or have some bark 'blown off.' Plants and lawn around the base of the tree are sometimes killed. The tree may now be a hazard. Foam at the base does not sound good! I would recommend having a reputable local arborist provide you with a firsthand assessment. Photo: This Norway Spruce was struck by lightning, causing bark to be blown off the trunk while creating a major split down the middle of the trunk. The tree was removed as soon as possible. Trees in this condition are called 'widow makers.'
Footnote: While homeowner's insurance paid several hundred dollars toward the removal of this lightning-struck Spruce, the same company denied insurance coverage for a similar Spruce blown over by high winds. Check your homeowner's insurance for specific coverages.

A: The photos really helped! Your tree is infested with Black Knot, a destructive (..and weird looking) fungal disease that most commonly affects cherry, plum, peach and apricot trees. Judging by the tree bark and twigs in your photos, your tree is a Cherry. In order to best answer your question, I am going to provide links to two fact sheets with complete details on dealing with this disease:
WVU fact sheet
Cornell fact sheet

A: First and foremost is not planting your evergreen too deep, since most evergreens are very sensitive to being planted too deeply. Most of them also hate having 'wet feet' so if the planting hole tends to hold water (heavy clay) see if there is a way to trench out of the lower side of the hole to drain excess standing water. You can backfill the trench with some stone to allow for easy drainage.
Evergreens need to go into winter with adequate moisture at their roots, since they continue to transpire moisture throughout the winter months. So if you have a dry fall, give evergreens a thorough watering before the ground freezes.
The rule of thumb used to be to amend soil backfill around a new evergreen with something like peat moss, but university research has indicated it is best to backfill with the native soil, unless it is really nasty clay or rock. It is usually best not to add fertilizer when planting, unless the fertilizer is nonburning, like an organic fertilizer. Spring would be a better time to fertilize your new evergreen.
If you want to go the extra mile, newly planted evergreen foliage can be sprayed with an "anti-dessicant" to help prevent winter dessication and windburn. The old standby has always been Wilt-Pruf.
More tree planting information

A: I think you nailed it, probably squirrels!

A: You sure packed a bunch of questions into one sentence! Thanks for the photo, it really does help. Looks like one of your pine trees is already leaning, but it appears to be the pipeline work beyond the trees that concerns you. Any trenching done next to a tree will remove lateral roots. You should be able to take a look at the open trench and determine the size and quantity of tree roots that have been cut. The closer trenching is done to a tree, the more destruction of important roots this causes. As a general rule, most tree roots are inside the branch tips, with some extending slightly beyond the branch tips. Also, most tree roots are in the top 12 to 18 inches of the soil. The area directly below the branch tips is called the "drip zone" and is where most smaller "feeder roots" are located. Trenching inside the drip zone is especially destructive since it damages the larger, major roots and will reduce a tree's stability. Heavy equipment should also be kept out of a tree's root zone, since this sort of traffic can be very detrimental to trees.

A: It sounds as though you may have a couple things going on there, which may be unrelated. First, most dripping from trees is caused by insect activity, usually aphids which are also called "plant lice." They work in conjunction with ants (symbiotic relationship) to feed mostly near branch tips, and they drip excess tree sap called "honeydew" (..not to be confused with a husband's "honey do" list ;-). This is what people usually notice on their vehicle's paint when parked beneath an infested tree for several hours. Over time, this honeydew will grow "black sooty mold" which often helps my quick diagnosis on insect-infested trees (It is common on Magnolias with scale infestations - See photo). Other than that being your possible situation, black algae can form in less sunny areas, lately becoming a scourge on asphalt shingles, especially on the north side of rooftops.

Your second scenario with "black specks on our vinyl railings" sounds like "artillery fungus." Chances are the wood mulch you applied around your house (..am I correct?) has developed a natural-occurring fungus that actually shoots these black spores onto your railings. Incoming!!!
These spores have great range, often landing over 10-feet away. We typically see them on light colored vinyl siding, reaching several feet above the ground, but its "fire" is drawn by any light colored surface, including vehicles. Scraping away one of the black spores usually does leave a mark. What to do?
First is to live with them. Beyond that, research has determined that some mulches are less likely to contain or promote the fungus, like cypress. (My cypress preservationists won't like that remark) Also, that annual mulching is more likely to discourage artillery fungus than mulches left 2 years or more to further decay between mulch applications. You could also switch to a stone mulch.

A: I've been told that some wives don't trust their husbands with chainsaws and loppers, so you may not be alone out there!  Don't be too hard on him though, the price was probably right. We try to do severe pruning like that in the spring of the year, since new growth begins shortly afterwards. You probably won't know what sort of new growth your tree will have until next spring. Photo: "Hat Rack" style pruning ruins tree structure and results in scores of weak sprouts.

A: Your situation does sound rather odd, especially since it is occurring on green branches when it isn't windy.  Question for you: Do you have squirrels in the yard? Sometimes those rascals will bite off branches, usually making an angled "cut" with their teeth. I've seen this occur on spruce trees, and yesterday one client had the same thing happening on her white oak. The nipped branches are usually shorter than yours, but they can still be over a foot long.

Cathi: We have lots of squirrels!  However, these limbs don't look eaten.
TreeBoss: Twigs won’t look gnawed, it is usually a fairly clean-cut like pruners.

A: Try taking an old broomstick or dowel rod and loosely attaching it to the main trunk, then loosely tie the most dominate side branch to the top of the broomstick in order to train it to grown upwards. Hopefully the side branch will take over as the tree's new leader after a year. Check your ties occasionally to ensure they are not girdling (choking) the tree trunk and branch, and loosen them if necessary.

IMPORTANT NOTE: In areas populated by deer, it is important to protect tree trunks from antler injury during the fall and early winter period, when bucks are rubbing the velvet off their antlers. This sort of damage can easily prove fatal to a tree, if not providing it with a major setback.
One of the simplest forms of tree trunk protection uses 4-inch diameter corrugated plastic drain pipe. This flexible pipe is cut to length, so it reaches from the ground to just below the first branch. Then the pipe is slit vertically, creating an opening for the pipe to be slid over the tree trunk. Caution should be exercised cutting and installing the pipe, so that tender bark isn't damaged when the pipe is opened up and slid over the tree trunk, since the pipe can be difficult to force open and the plastic edges are sharp. It helps if two people do the work together. This corrugated 4-inch pipe can be purchased at most lumber yards and home centers, costing less than $5 for a 10-foot section, which is enough to protect a couple trees. The perforated type of drain pipe is best since the holes aid air movement around the tree trunk.

A: It sure sounds like you may have lost them. It is very difficult to keep B&B trees sitting on top of the ground moist, especially without heeling them part way into the ground or putting some mulch around the rootballs.... it sounds like these trees dried-out and died. If they don't have any leaves by the end of June it is time to give up on them for sure. Photo: Balled & Burlapped trees on top of the ground.

A: A bigger issue than the root loss may be the time of year you have chosen for transplanting. It is always best to transplant trees during their dormant stage, when they don't have any leaves on them: Fall - right after they drop their leaves, Spring - before they put on any leaves or new growth.

A: It sounds as though your tree was in shock from being moved. You didn't mention if it was in a plastic pot or B&B (balled and burlapped). In either case, it is easy for the roots of trees to dry out quickly when they are above ground, especially in the sun. Transporting a tree without proper protection (in order to keep the wind from buffeting the foliage) can also have a drying effect.

While watering a potted tree is fairly simple (water the tree slowly until water is coming out of all the holes in the bottom of the plastic pot) it can be much more difficult to thoroughly wet the root ball on a B&B tree (see photo on right). Once your tree was planted in the hole you dug, one thorough watering should have been adequate for the first week in most locations, unless you have fast draining soil. Overwatering a tree can suffocate the roots, since roots also need to exchange gases, and saturated soil prevents that from happening. (It is also important to move a B&B tree by lifting the root ball instead of by the trunk, since this lifting can damage roots).

Old-timers in the nursery business used to always prune away (or thin) some of the branches from a transplanted tree to help balance the "root to shoot ratio," since trees lose a portion of their roots when dug-up using the B&B method. Potted trees tend to grow circling roots, in which case you should cut the roots down one side and across the bottom of the root ball to help break the circling root growth pattern that can lead to the tree being "girdled" (choked) by its own roots as it gets older. This type of root cutting can also put a newly planted tree under stress.

A: Sounds like the tree was dug-up at the wrong time of year and it may be dead. Trees have the best chance of surviving transplant if they are dug when dormant, as opposed to when they are actively growing (and producing oranges). You may want to speak with the owner of an orange grove or a local nurseryman to get further detailed advice on transplanting orange trees. You could also seek free advice from the agricultural extension of University of Florida, here is their webpage: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu

A: If they are shedding their bark and in bad shape you should contact a professional arborist to have them removed as soon as possible! Silver maples are not a desirable species of Maple to begin with, but many people plant them since they grow so fast. There is a good reason why dangerous trees like these are often called "widow makers."  Photo: These two silver maples were topped several years ago in an effort to reduce their size, but all that did was create fast growing, weak, vertical sprouts. Money would have been better spent removing these trees and planting desirable ones.

A: Sounds like the top of your ash tree got frozen back and won't recover. You will know for sure as the living buds finish opening-up and leafing out. Once the good buds have all opened, prune off any dead wood above and beyond the new growth, removing all the dead branches. Sprouts growing from the trunk are not desirable for the long run, but they may temporarily give the tree some added strength, so you need to decide whether to prune them off now or leave them for a few months while the tree recovers. New growth from the top of your cutback tree will have to be trained to form a new central "leader" if you lost the old leader on the tree. A single leader is desirable on most trees, since multiple leaders can lead to branching that is more prone to splitting in storms. An application of fertilizer this spring, following label instructions related to its size, would also help the tree, as well as thorough weekly watering during this year's growing season.

Note: If you lived in the midwestern US and reported the same symptoms on an Ash tree, it would be necessary to determine if Emerald Ash Borer had damaged your tree, since the symptoms you listed are very similar. To my knowledge the EAB has not yet invaded Texas, but it has definitely continued its deadly march across northern states.

A: Move the young tree soon, before the leaves come out, while it is still dormant. Attempt to get most of the roots while digging it up, replant it at the same depth it was growing, and thoroughly water it in. Depending on soil and weather conditions, water it about once a week during the growing season to help ensure its survival.
Photo: New leaves emerging on a Sunburst Honeylocust

A: If the tree is still small enough, and it hasn't produced any new growth yet this spring, you could attempt to dig it up and reposition it in an upright position. (Digging trees while they are dormant is the safest time, spring or fall)  This would be worth the effort and risk if you are considering removing the tree anyway. Once it is replanted be sure to "stake" the tree to help stabilize its corrected position for the first year. Water it weekly (depends on your weather and soil conditions) to help ensure its survival through its critical first year of replanting.

Some of the old-time nurserymen believed in removing some branches after digging a tree to help balance the "root to shoot ratio" since many roots are lost during transplanting. They felt removing some branches helped recreate a balance. University research over the past couple decades has disputed the value of that sort of effort, but in any case, it is always good to remove branches that are crossing or growing inwards. Doing this sort of corrective pruning, while a tree is still young, is always the most economical and best practice.

A: Before doing anything you should discuss this situation with your neighbor. You should also check your legal rights in your particular state regarding this sort of situation. The last thing you want to do is start a property line feud over these roots, and those types of feuds are easily ignited when it comes to property line issues.

Removing a root presents its own set of risks, such as subjecting a tree to windthrow or opening the root tissue to soil borne pathogens. It is usually better to mulch over these sorts of roots than have them cohabitate with grass that needs mowed regularly. Surface rooted trees produce multiple surface roots over time, so these probably won't be the last roots that "invade" your lawn.

If you still decide on root removal... Before you attempt any sort of digging you should always phone ONE CALL (811) so you know exactly where utility lines are located and how close you can safely dig to them. Ideally, you would remove the offending root without digging, since it sounds risky in that area with buried utility lines. A stump grinding service may be able to help if digging is not an option.

A: I would suggest accessing another free resource for some professional help on this tree topic, since a variety of tree known to be reliable (Maple) has already failed. In the case of Washington state this would be the Washington State University Extension at http://ext.wsu.edu

Unless deep budget cuts derail the agriculture extensions in each state, they will continue to provide an excellent and valuable resource for everyone with horticultural (and other) questions.

A: As with any tree, one always has to go back to basics and ask the following questions:
Is the tree receiving enough water, but not too much?
Are there any insect pests or diseases present?
Does the soil present any special problems, like with poor drainage?
Is too much shade, or root competition from other trees a factor?
Are any applications on or around the tree adversely affecting it?
Have unusual weather conditions affected the tree?
Are any guy wires or synthetic wraps restricting the roots or trunk?
Is the tree planted in the right temperate zone?

The Mountain Ash isn't really an ash tree, which is fortunate due to the rapid spread of the deadly Emerald Ash Borer. That being said, the Mountain Ash is susceptible to a disease called Fire Blight. Without going into detail, I can tell you that it is best not to overfertilize Mountain Ash, especially with nitrogen fertilizer, since this can increase the tree's susceptibility to Fire Blight. Damaged trees look as though as they have burned by fire, and often have the telltale "shepherd's crook" at their bentover growing tips.

A: Trees are valued using a formula that takes into account a tree's species, size, location and condition. Caliper is a nursery industry term used for the trunk diameter of smaller trees, while D.B.H. (diameter breast height, which is four and one-half feet above the ground) is used for large trees like your oak. To find a certified arborist near you, go to the International Society of Arboriculture website at: http://www.isaarbor.com/faca/findArborist.aspx
Photo: Few trees are as impressive as a mighty Oak with a massive trunk and branches, in this case, a White Oak (Quercus alba).

A: Your story is indeed very tragic, especially considering the ripe old age of your 7 oak trees. Whether trees are "drop crotched" with a large "U" cut out of their middles, "topped" completely beneath wires, or "flat-sided" like yours, the result often resembles a headless horseman.

Just this week I attended a seminar for landscape professionals and one of the plant pathology professors from Penn State, Gary Moorman, spoke about the worst time to trim oak trees, in regard to creating additional risks from Oak Wilt disease. Since this disease is spread by insects (or root grafts) it is best not to trim oaks from April through October, since open wounds can promote spread of the disease pathogens by insects that are active during that time frame. That being said, White Oaks are less susceptible to Oak Wilt than oaks in the Red Oak group. To learn more, here is an article on Oak Wilt.

From a purely mechanical point of view, even if these trees lost 1/3 of their canopies, they stand a good chance of survival. Hopefully the company used "target pruning" and made professional cuts that won't result in an excessive number of dead stubs or lingering open wounds. Unfortunately, this type of trimming, as is also seen with topping and drop crotching, results in permanent structural damage to the tree, where a desirable, strong branching structure is replaced by multiple weak sprouts which actually create a higher risk to utility lines over time. (Photo: Severely pruned Maple tree beneath utility lines)

A: I agree with you on that 'funky' odor from flowering Bradford pears! Some varieties and particular trees seem to be worse than others. Before I answer your question from here in Pennsylvania, where I would guess mid-April, let me suggest you contact the NC State Cooperative Extension people in your home state for their answer.
Here is their link: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu

Tree bloom times can move a little forward or back by early spring weather conditions. It's not uncommon these days for us to see trees begin to open blossoms and unfurl leaves way too early, then get 'nipped' in short order by subsequent, more seasonal cold snaps. Hope you have great weather (..and no pear blossoms) for your spring party!

A: And thank you for including your location, it makes answering these questions much easier! When trunk damage specifically occurs on the southwest side of a tree we usually suspect "Southwest Sunscald." Think about how cold a tree trunk can get during the nighttime hours, only to be quickly heated by the sun the next day. The resulting temperature extreme -- from cold to hot -- can cause a vertical split in the bark on the southwest side of the trunk. On larger trees this splitting action has been reported to be as loud as a gunshot.

While tree wraps are generally not recommended or necessary for older trees, newly planted trees are often wrapped with a special tree wrap or crepe-paper (that comes in rolls) during the winter months. The proper direction to wrap a tree trunk with this 'stretchy' paper is from the bottom up, with a slight overlap, in order to create a "shingle effect" for water runoff. (If the final top wrap is tied-off with string or twine, be sure to check it periodically to see if it needs loosened due to trunk expansion)  A number of horticultural suppliers also sell plastic wrap-arounds to protect tree trunks from critter damage.... these would also help protect against southwest sunscald.

Regarding recommendations for specific varieties of fruit trees to plant in your area, I would suggest checking with your state's agricultural extension through New Mexico State University at: http://extension.nmsu.edu

A: It really depends how deep they chewed and around how much of the circumference to determine if your trees will survive. Those two factors will determine what your trees will look like by early summer. Of course in the meantime it would be worth putting some hardware cloth (metal mesh) -- or even chicken wire if you are sure it is rabbits and not mice -- in place to prevent further damage. People are often thrown off their game when snow accumulates because it elevates rabbits and other varmits to new heights for their chewing activities.
Photo: Bark damage to a Burning Bush during the winter.

A: Those "knuckles" you speak of sound like old branch "collar" areas that have compartmentalized the wounds where branches were removed. Instead of replacing tissue like we do with our skin, trees grow new layers of tissue over and around old wounds. This is called compartmentalization. (Photo: Pin Oak closing over a wound where a branch was removed several years ago)

Removing those 'knuckles' would undo your trees' years of work to seal off those old wounds by growing a protective, yet bulging, layer. Even though pruning the sprouts may be a pain, due to constant trimming required, that is much better for the tree than opening old wounds.

A: Any time you change the soil "grade" around a tree you are taking chances. Adding soil on top of a tree's root zone can act to suffocate roots. Most people tend to think of soil as a "solid mass" but the fact of the matter is that soil has pore spaces which allow for the exchange of gases, and this network of pores allows tree roots to breathe. By covering a tree's rootzone with more than an inch of soil you risk suffocating the roots. It is also detrimental to trees to have extra soil piled up higher against their trunks. Photo: Double-whammy! Half of this tree's root system has been buried and soil is piled against the trunk.

In a different fashion, excavating soil away from a tree's root zone can damage fine feeder roots and root hairs, the parts of a tree's roots that do most of the important work. It is usually pretty obvious when you dig into these roots since they are clearly visible and usually difficult to dig through. If you ever do have to cut through larger roots on a tree, it is advisable to make a neat cut and then paint the cut ends with tree paint. This runs counter to the advice on tree branches where "painting" wounds is not recommended.

A: This may be work for tree professionals. Countless individuals suffer severe injuries when working with trees, since they aren't always predictable. That being said, the branch would probably have to be tied-off with a strong rope (or two) to hold the branch in position while the necessary cuts are made. Once the branch is free, it could be safely lowered to the ground for final reduction and removal.

One danger with tree branches is that they can be "spring loaded." In other words, a branch can get bent against the ground in a fashion where once it is cut, it can release tension unpredictably, possibly striking you or an object like this fence. The weight of a huge branch can also be crushing.

So again, tree climbing and the removal of larger branches is best left for professionals. It's not worth risking personal injury or property damage to save money. Always ensure that the tree services you contract have liability and workmen's compensation insurance, and are true tree professionals instead of just chain saw gurus.

Q: I have a tree in front of my house that was planted by the township 5 years ago that is now starting to mature. It is producing berries that when landing on my cars finish are very hard to remove. A car wash will not get them off. I have had to use a power washer to get them loose. Once off I have notice that they have stained the paint finish and even etched the finish in some cases. I have tried to compound these out but with little or no success. I do not own the tree and complaints to the township resulted in a response of “do not park under it” I have attached a photo copy of the leaves and I hope you can tell me what type of tree it is, if the berries are acidic and any suggestions on how to remove the stains.
I appreciate your help. Thank you – John

A: Looks as though it may be a Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) tree. The Serviceberry has a blue-colored fruit when ripe, shaped like a real small grape. As far as questions on berry stains in your automobile's finish, I would suggest contacting a collision shop. If you must continue parking under the tree, you may want to consider a car cover that is weather (and berry) resistant.

A: About all you can do now is trim away any loose bark back to a clean cut edge that is still firmly attached to the tree. You might also consider putting mulch around the base of your aspen trees so that using a weed whacker near them is no longer necessary. Next growing season do all you can to help keep the trees healthy; fertilize them in spring and water them during any dry spells.

A: I checked with a friend who has successfully filled dozens of tree cavities with that spray foam insulation that comes in an aerosol can. You can buy it at home improvement stores. It is a bit tricky to use since it swells up after you spray it in the hole, so it is difficult to gauge just how much to spray in.

Allow the hole in the tree to dry out some. Then spray-in the foam, and give it a day or two to dry. Once it dries, shave the foam back with a knife to an inch below the level of the tree's outer bark (so the foam is recessed below the bark) and then paint the surface of the dried foam with roofing asphalt. This should do the trick!

On larger cavities he recommends using a piece of sheet insulation foam board on the surface of the cavity, again keeping it just below the level of the bark before painting the foam board with roofing asphalt. Keeping the foam recessed allows the bark to close over top of the wound without 'pushing out' your repair.
Photo: Branch removal location on a tree trunk showing good tissue growth where the tree has nearly finished "compartmentalizing" the wound. The goal on all trunk wounds is gaining this sort of closure.

A: Sometimes trees do appear not to be growing during their first year or so. The key is providing them with the basics they need.... thorough weekly waterings during hot, dry weather is one example. An application of fertilizer in the spring will encourage new growth as well. Plus you need to monitor for any destructive insects that may be present by periodically examining foliage (always check underneath leaves too).
  
All that being said, Hornbeams can be very sensitive to heat and dry weather. In the case of a columnar Hornbeam on my own property, which is growing in a narrow planter next to the driveway and street, I have observed its displeasure with hot summer conditions, especially when I'm not keeping it throughly watered once a week during the July-August timeframe.
  
The leaves tend to brown at the tips, especially on the sunny side where it gets extra heat radiating off the asphalt pavement. Some years it will even partially defoliate by September. I've observed these trees doing the same thing in sidewalk planters in the city.

A: Sometimes Oaks suffer if they are growing on calcareous soils, in other words, soils with a high pH that are too "sweet" for an Oak's liking. They usually prefer slightly "acidic" soils.
  
Yes, high pH soil will affect an Oak when it comes to iron, and this can lead to a condition called "chlorosis" where the veins of the leaves are often much darker green than the surrounding leaf tissue.
  
There are water soluble products available to help address chlorotic conditions in plants ('Miracid' is one often used on Rhododendrons and Azaleas) but the size of the tree might limit how much you can reasonably affect overall conditions. You could do some further internet research using "iron chlorosis" for your search term.

A: A bundle of tied-up dry corn stalks might add decoration and hide the carvings, at least for the fall season!  Or you could drape a decorative seasonal banner in a key location to hide this part of the trunk.
 
Seriously though, you might consider using a "tree wrap" which is sort of a stretchy crepe paper that comes in rolls about 4-inches wide and maybe 25-feet long. This would work best on small trees, not so much on larger trees.
 
This sort of tree wrap is best rolled around the tree from the bottom up, placing enough tension on the wrap to hold it firmly in place, while overlapping each successive go-round slightly, sort of like roof shingles. The top can be tied off with some twine as long as you check it periodically to make sure it isn't "girdling" (cutting into the bark) the tree.
 
While tree paint isn't recommended for most trunk wounds, it would be a viable option for camouflaging any color differences, even though the standard color is black.

You can mail order these sorts of supplies from someplace like A.M. Leonard in Ohio. We have used their catalog for several decades with good results. (Hey Leonard's, you owe me one!)

A: Oaks are usually considered best transplanted in the Spring of the year. However, if it can be planted without disturbing any of the roots, fall would still be OK. Being that small, you may want to put some metal mesh around it to protect it from rabbits, rodents and deer browsing.  
Late October is also a good time for everyone to consider protecting tree trunks from whitetail deer. Bucks are known to severely damage trees this time of year. Even a section of corrugated black plastic drain pipe is usually enough to discourage them.
Photo: Red Oaks should be planted far enough away from your house to allow for their eventual large size.

A: If all things are equal with the amount of sunlight like you say, then you would probably be looking at a soil or tree root issue. You didn't mention what size the Pear is, but a larger tree could have enough roots sharing the same space with your hollies, lavender and daylilies that it is robbing them of moisture, especially "within the dripline." As a general rule of thumb, most feeder roots are concentrated around a tree's dripline. 
 
You also mentioned being next to a driveway... not sure how much ice or snow you get in Maryville, TN, but perhaps that side of the driveway was affected by deicers? An application that can help minimize plant and lawn damage in those sorts of areas subjected to de-icing salt is GYPSUM. It is best applied in the fall before winter weather arrives, follow label instructions.

Heat issue... Does that side of the driveway get more heat from prevailing winds, etc?

We aren't aware of any toxicity-type problems with Pears resembling the juglone exuded by Black Walnut trees. When you do water, always try to apply water slowly and thoroughly so the water has time to penetrate the ground. Early morning is the preferred time of day for watering.

A: I would suggest checking with your state's agricultural extension branch at UC Riverside. Here is their web site URL:
http://cnas.ucr.edu/faculty/cooperative_extension.html 

Brown needles toward the center of a pine (in the northeastern US) can be a normal occurrence in August. Pines usually shed their older needles late in the growing season. You might closely inspect the wood of the top branch to see if there are any signs of insect damage (bleeding sap) or boring into the wood.
(Photo: Eastern White Pine shedding older needles that are lower on branches, inside the tree. This is normal.)
     

A: It sounds like the solution to your problem is locating a professional arborist who knows how to properly trim a tree, not just top it. You might want to check the database of listed professionals at the ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) web site for a reference.
  

A: Have you carefully examined the base of each tree to see if some sort of rodent chewed the bark off just above ground level? You would probably have to remove what appear to be plastic rings (in Jane’s emailed photos) that are also holding several inches of mulch to inspect the tree trunks. It is recommended not to have mulch piled-up around the base of a tree trunk, partly because it can provide cover for mice and other rodents to do their bark chewing over the winter. It also holds moisture against the bark. When did the leaves die-off / shrivel on these trees?

Jane: I think we noticed a problem in May.

TreeBoss: More questions then Jane: Did the leaves come on the tree and then die as if burned by fire? Did you fertilize the trees?

Jane: My husband says the trees were OK until he sprayed with the fruit spray preventive.  New info to me.

TreeBoss: If sprays are applied at the wrong time or wrong rate, they can severely damage or kill trees. Examples of wrong times would include 'muggy' weather -- you shouldn't apply some insecticides in hot, humid weather that is typical during July/August afternoons. Another example would include 'dormant oil' spray being applied either too early in the fall or too late in the spring, especially on trees with thin bark. I saw a case where several thousand dollars worth of beech trees were killed by a dormant oil spray being applied too late in the spring. As the old saying goes, always read and follow label instructions on the product you are using (before you use it).

As a general rule of thumb with most tree and shrub spraying, it is much better to make your spray applications in the cool of the early morning instead of in the heat of the day. When it is still cool there is much less chance for damage caused by 'phytotoxicity.' Since wind can cause spray "drift" onto non-target areas, morning is usually a much better time to spray since air is calmer. And of course, you don't want it to rain right after you apply a foliar spray, so check the forecast.

While we are on this topic: Dress for the job when you are spraying. Change out of the flip-flops, shorts and t-shirt into something that gives you better protection from spray drift. Shower when you are done. Remember that most cases of pesticide poisoning are DERMAL, meaning the poison enters through skin. Your highest risk of exposure comes when you are mixing the concentrate. Protect your eyes from splashing. Some skin areas are much more "absorbent" than others. One symptom of exposure and pesticide poisoning is pinpoint pupils, where your eye's pupil is very small or pinpoint. Some people are susceptible to various pesticide formulations that can act as cholinesterase inhibitors. Again, read and follow label instructions, they are there to help YOU as much as the plant! And always remember to keep pesticides in their original containers and out of the reach of children.
 

A: This is the first time I ever heard of anything like this, but that doesn't mean it is uncommon. Did you ask the supplier for a product information sheet or MSDS that might identify the colorant used on the mulch? Looking online at a MSDS for red colorant used on mulch, under Summary of Health Risks and Symptoms of Exposure: "May cause mechanical skin and eye irritation."  IRON OXIDE is the primary ingredient of this particular red colorant, along with some lesser ingredients listed as "proprietary." 

There is an outside chance that poison ivy could get into shredded bark mulch products since debarking machines at sawmills strip off the tree bark (and probably any attached vines) prior to sawing the logs into boards. (See: Where does shredded mulch come from?) Other mulch products are made from chipped pallets or wood. We have used a product called TECNU when we suspect any contact with poison ivy. Always read and follow label instructions. You might want to try using natural shredded bark mulch (un-dyed) next time around.

A: The words "good" and "fast growing" don't often accompany each other when it comes to tree selections. Silver Maples are probably the worst! You might have to scale back to a tree with a "moderate" rate of growth to be happy. If you can, I would wait until cooler fall weather arrives to plant a new tree. That being said, most nursery trees these days are grown in black plastic pots and don't suffer the same transplanting shock that dug trees will. That is why nurseries dig larger B&B (balled and burlapped) trees when the tree is dormant in late fall or early spring.
  
The Red Maple is a dependable tree with a moderate rate of growth. We happen to have one in our front yard on the southwest side of the house, and it has reached an age (35) where it helps cool the house on hot sunny summer afternoons. The problem with Maples is always surface roots, one of the characteristics you said you don't want in your new tree.
  
The best way to select a new tree is determining how tall it can grow without creating problems, so that you don't get into 'the right tree in the wrong place' situation that often occurs with trees under utility wires. Once you have determined ultimate size constraints, you should visit a nursery with your specifications to see what they have available.
  
It is always safest to select a tree that is full hardy in your temperate zone. And in the case of trees like crabapples, be sure to get one of the varieties that has good ratings for disease resistance. During the first year or two of growth, be sure to remove any inward growing, or crossing branches, creating a good basic branch structure for your tree while it is still young. This can save major pruning later that creates large gaps.
  

A: I don't think this new chipped wood will create any risks that you haven't already had with other wood-based mulches you used in the past. However, decaying wood chips will take nitrogen out of the soil during the decay process, so it would be a good idea to balance that out with an application of nitrogen fertilizer, just don't overdo it.

Just about any mulch holds moisture and provides a good home for insects. Another concern is artillery fungus, which can form on most wood mulches and shoot black spores 10 feet. You will often find these small black spores on the sunny side of light colored houses. It will even fire its sticky spores at cars parked close to mulched beds, and may be mistaken for road tar spots (see photo). It is most common in beds that aren't mulched regularly. Fire!

A: Many trees just naturally have high root systems and there isn't much you can do to change that. Other roots have just grown very large over the years, especially those in close to the tree. Therefore it is often best to mulch those areas or plant a vine or ground cover so you don't have to mow over them. This article provides more detail:
http://www.treeboss.net/surface_roots.htm

A: If I were to guess with the odds, I would probably take "fungus" out of your list of choices. That being said, Pears also get a bacterial disease called fire blight where the foliage will look scorched and turn black. For trees that are susceptible to fire blight, it is best not to over-fertilize them.

Black looking branches and leaves will also appear if a tree is infested with any type of insect that excretes honeydew, sticky stuff that eventually grows black sooty mold, and makes branches look black. You will usually see ants in the tree if this is the case.

In addition to the local nurseries, you might also try your agricultural extension of Texas A&M. Plant diagnostic labs at universities usually want to see a sample with a combination of unaffected tissue leading into affected tissue. They can tell you how to gather and mail samples to the university. You can find your county branch listed here.

A: It would be best to remove the rest of the decaying wood beneath the new tree prior to planting, to help avoid settling. We have also seen situations where old stumps beneath new trees cause a new tree not to root properly since it is “perched” on the old stump and the root ball can easily dry out. Do some digging and remove the stump, if it is as rotten as you think, the rest of the old wood will come out very easily anyway.

A: I would suggest contacting your state's agricultural extension for some help with these issues, much cheaper than flying me round trip coast to coast!  Use this link for help through the Washington State University Extension: http://extension.wsu.edu/about/Pages/RequestExtensionInformation.aspx

Q: We have a 4 year old Maple Crimson Royal Red and many of the top branches did not leaf out this year and look dead. Is there anything we can do to save this tree or should we replace it? Jean

A: First you might try pruning out the dead areas all the way back to branches that are fully leafed-out. Always prune back to just above a strong side branch so that new growth can takeover from there, without leaving any stubs. Water your young tree weekly this summer if weather is dry. You should also fertilize the tree once this spring, but discontinue fertilization after July 4th so that new growth on the tree can harden-off for winter. (Late-summer and early-fall fertilization can create lush growth that doesn’t properly harden-off for winter weather, increasing the chance of dieback) 
Photo: 'Crimson King' Maples are known for holding their crimson colored leaves all summer.

A: Perhaps with your young 2-year old tree it may be possible to stake it, or use some supports to hold it upright, in order to encourage a strong central leader. Also, stop fertilizing the tree if you have been fertilizing it, since some trees tend to outgrow themselves if "pushed" too hard with fertilizer (Thundercloud Plum, Sweetbay Magnolia).  You might also want to thin the side branches, or shorten them, to take some of the weight off the top of the tree. It is usually best not to "top" a tree unless you have no other choice.

A: Your yellow locust is probably a Sunburst Honeylocust, which is one that has bright yellow new growth and foliage. With this tender new growth exposed, a hard frost or freeze could cause the type of damage you describe. Trees usually recover from one freeze-back, but more sensitive ones may suffer if they push out a second set of leaves and get hit again with a hard frost or freeze. Hopefully you are getting past that weather trend now and summer is on the way!

A: Chances are this particular Blue Spruce lost its "leader" in some sort of mishap or storm. Spruce trees do best if they have a single central leader. What you can do is help your spruce create a new central leader. Pick a good side branch near the top of the tree and train it vertically by gently bending it upward and tying it to a wooden dowel rod, or some other sort of stake, in a couple places (even a small tomato stake would probably work). Then tie the other end of the stake in a couple places to the main trunk. You should use strips of cloth or something soft (your old dress ties?) and somewhat flexible so the ties don't cut into the bark. (Check the ties periodically to ensure they aren't constricting growth and cutting into the bark). The finished product should look something like a splint on a person's broken leg. If this is left on the tree for one year, this side branch will begin to grow vertically and take over its new role as the central leader.

A: While I am not familiar with the tree species you mentioned, this sounds like it may be caused by an insect infestation on your trees. We have a similar situation here in Pennsylvania with several species of trees, and the classic symptom is 'sticky stuff' dripping on cars, often from Maple trees. In our case it is usually aphids, which excrete a sticky honeydew while feeding on trees, usually near the tender growing tips of branches. Aphids often have ants as their allies, in a symbiotic relationship: The ants get the excess sticky stuff as food, and the aphids get moved around to the best feeding sites by the ants. Some deal, eh? Branches of infested trees will also turn black over time since this sticky excretion grows 'sooty mold' which makes the branches appear to be black.
  
Therefore, inspect the growing tips of some of the lower branches to see if you have clusters of aphids near the growing tips. They will be small insects (often green or black, but can be other colors) clustered in a group and visible without a magnifying glass. (The photo shows green colored aphids on the growing tips of Spirea).
  
If by chance this insect is not your problem and it is caused by a different insect, cut 12-inches off the end of a branch and take it to a local tree nursery or garden center to see if they can help you identify the problem. Photos of the rest of the tree may also help them with their analysis. Each US state has an agricultural extension service that can also help with insect identification and treatment advice, in your case that would be the University of Nevada.

A: That is certainly a new approach to a leaky basement!  Never heard that suggestion before, but seriously doubt that it would accomplish what was intended. That being said, if you decide to do some digging around, check all your downspouts first to make sure the connections haven't come loose underground, since we have seen that happen in the past when settling occurs around backfilled foundations. This is often the case if water leaks inside the basement correspond to the location of downspouts on the outside.

Like Sycamore and Willow, River Birch (Betula nigra) does like moist areas. However, keep in mind that River Birch grows large enough, fast enough that it should be thought of as a shade tree instead of the smaller clump birch (European White Birch) that were typically planted closer to house foundation corners. River Birch is more desirable with its resistance to the deadly bronze birch borer, but instead of the bright white smooth bark that many desire, it has an interesting orange-colored exfoliating style of bark (see photo).

Other plants that like wet soils are: Red 'Swamp' Maple (Acer rubrum), Bugleweed (Ajuga), Serviceberry tree (Amelanchier), Astilbe, the fragrant Fringetree (Chionanthus), Cornus stolonifera (Dogwood shrub), Forsythia, Daylily (Hemerocalis), Hosta (if you don't have deer), Itea, Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia), Maiden Grass (Miscanthus), and Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum).

A: You are going to disappoint a bunch of squirrels if you inhibit their walnut gathering!  The squirrels we have around here feel our entire yard should be a grove of walnut trees. As an aside, you probably already realize that many plants won't grow near walnut trees due to juglans, a chemical exuded by all of a walnut tree's parts - leaves, nuts, etc.
  
Generally speaking, Florel brand Growth Regulator is a product used to eliminate nuisance fruit from many species of trees, but I'm not sure if Walnut trees are on the label. Always read and follow label instructions before using any garden product. For trees that are listed on the label, a tree is sprayed once with this product at the mid- to full- blossom stage to eliminate undesirable or nuisance fruit. You should phone the manufacturer to check the label for Walnut trees, while also making sure the product is registered for use in your state.
Monterey Lawn and Garden Products - Phone: 559-499-2100
 
If you were to find a spray that worked on your Walnut trees, the next challenge would be applying the spray, especially if they are tall trees. Note: Some tree sprays will spot paint, especially on vehicles!

Q: I have a maple that was damaged recently.  We just trimmed it up and now after almost 24 hours it is still dripping large amounts of sap.  Is there anything we should/could do?  Or are we better off leaving it alone?

A: When Maples are trimmed or damaged during their dormant season (no leaves on the tree) they will often 'bleed' by dripping sap. This is more alarming to watch than it is to the tree. As leaves come on in spring the 'bleeding' will cease. Even though this sort of bleeding hasn't been shown to harm Maples, this annoyance is one reason that Maples are often trimmed while they are in 'full leaf' so this dripping does not occur.

A: As the saying goes, "Two wrongs don't make a right"… Not that the power company was wrong to prune their utility right of way. Many folks in our area lost power for several days to a full week during the heavy February snowstorm, mostly due to trees being too close to power lines.
  
It is still unfortunate when utilities have to shave one side or "drop crotch" beautiful trees by pruning them right through the middle. What my “two wrongs” comment implies is that I would not suggest whacking back the good side of the tree just to make it match the bad side. Instead, I would work with the tree's lopsidedness and continue to trim both sides as needed, removing or thinning the vertical sprouts from the chopped side, and periodically thinning the good side using proper tree pruning standards.

A: In order to assist our website visitors with tree trimming "how to" we have just created a new YouTube channel called GNARLYBARK http://www.youtube.com/gnarlybark that will be a growing library of tree trimming videos. You may find a couple of videos there already which will help answer your questions.

A: You didn't mention which variety of Magnolia you have, but the general rule of thumb when trimming flowering plants is to trim them within a couple weeks of when they finish blooming. This allows trees that set flower buds on "old wood" time to set their buds for next year. The reason for this timing is that if flower buds are already set, and you trim in the fall or early spring, flower buds will be removed. (Photo: Star Magnolia)
 
When trimming trees, try not to leave any stubs, but don't cut so close to the trunk that you damage the swollen area at the base of the branch known as the branch collar.  To direct growth, trim branches just beyond side branches that are growing in the direction you wish to promote growth, which is usually outward. Remove branches growing inward, crossing branches, and of course, dead branches.
  
Always try to make clean cuts and prune with the proper tools: hand pruners for smaller branches, loppers for medium sized branches, and a pruning saw for larger branches. Try not to tear the bark when making saw cuts by removing the bulk of the branch first, then removing the final section of branch with a short undercut then a finishing top cut. On smaller branches you can support the weight of the branch while finishing your saw cut to prevent torn bark. If you need to sterilize pruning tools after trimming a diseased plant you can use isopropyl alcohol.
  

A: If it is at all feasible, a tree's root zone should be fenced off from construction activities. Since we are beyond that point, let's try to answer your questions. Considering the soil will only be there for 15 days, and since the trees are probably in a dormant state this time of year, root "suffocation" shouldn't be a big factor. However, heavy equipment driving repeatedly over a tree's root systems can cause damage from the shear weight of the equipment and resulting soil compaction. Compaction is more of a problem with wet soils. You will want to ensure that the previous grade is restored around your trees, making sure there isn't more soil over the roots than before, and that the machine grading the area doesn't dig too deep and cause physical damage to the tree's roots near the soil surface. Some contractors will try to grade out extra dirt instead of hauling it away. You don't want that to happen. Finally, care should be taken so careless equipment operators aren't 'skinning' bark off any of your trees.

Construction root damage can take up to 5 years to reveal itself, usually with a decline and thinning of leaves near the branch tips at the top of the tree.

A: Rapid growth and weak branching set the Flowering Pear up for frequent storm breakage, especially in those trees over 15 years old. While you can probably "salvage" your tree, you shouldn't expect it to regain the proper branching structure that you once enjoyed. That being said, Flowering Pears do take well to very heavy pruning. They will produce vigorous sprouts from areas that have been severely cutback, and even regain some of their shapely appearance during summer. Just remember the new, fast-growing, vertical sprouts will be much weaker than the branch structure that originally failed during a storm. Therefore, it is advisable to perform annual or semi-annual pruning to limit the height of any refurbished tree that is full of these weak vertical sprouts. 
Photo: While I don't advocate "topping" most trees, the Flowering Pear might be the exception to the rule, especially if it is a Bradford Pear.  "Heading back" a Pear through semi-annual shaping can help prevent serious storm damage to trees like the one pictured. Someone began shaping this tree before it got to the "storm damage age."

A: I am familiar with the condition you mention. Some Alberta Spruces have a tendency to grow "bud sports."  These sports develop on various plants and grow sprouts that look entirely different than the parent plant. In the case of Alberta Spruce bud sports, they look like small Norway spruce trees with more open branching and needle configurations than an Alberta. While you may be able to keep your cutting "green" in a bucket of water (just like you do a cut Christmas tree) there is little chance of it sprouting roots and supporting itself when it is transplanted outdoors. You might want to purchase a small potted tree in spring and plant it instead.

A: Sounds as though your Oak may be diseased. As far as holes in the rotten heartwood, they could be caused by just about anything. Sapsucker woodpeckers make holes close together in semi-straight rows, even in healthy tree bark, and come back occasionally to snack on whatever insects may have taken refuge. Carpenter ants favor wet wood and can mine-out extensive areas (see photo). Ant activity should be clearly visible.

You didn’t mention what state you live in, but every state has a land grant university that serves as an agricultural extension for homeowners (example: Penn State for Pennsylvania). Most of them have plant diagnostic labs where a homeowner can send samples to be analyzed. These universities are also familiar with local growing conditions and regional plant problems. I would suggest contacting your state agricultural university for help in diagnosing your problem.

A: Some plants like Hollies (Ilex) require separate male and female plants for pollination, so those plants are known as being dioecious (two households). Other plants have both male and female reproductive units and are known as monoecious (one household). Even though Pineapple guava is in the second category (self fertile), two plants are still needed for cross-pollination to bring about better fruit quality. Therefore, the nursery is looking after your best interests by recommending two plants. The California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG) has a webpage here to explain much more about specific cultivars of pineapple guava.

A: Good description of your evergreen tree, which sounds like an Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus) with bundles of 5 soft needles that are nearly 4-inches long. Tapping the tree would not be the solution to your problem with dripping sap. This is more likely to be an insect problem shared by deciduous trees: Aphids. We most often hear of sticky sap dripping on parked cars under shade trees. However, there is also an insect called White Pine Aphid that behaves in a similar manner, sucking sap out of the tree and dripping the excess honeydew onto objects below, like your deck. This dripping often causes black sooty mold to grow on tree branches, giving them a black velvety appearance (see photo below of black sooty mold on tree leaves). Another symptom is ant activity in the tree, since ants form a symbiotic relationship with aphids, moving them to the best feeding spots (usually branch tips) while the ants benefit from their honeydew excretions. While aphids that feed on most shrubs are green, White Pine aphids are black.
   
So if this hypothesis is correct, your solution would be to eliminate the aphids. If your tree was smaller and the infestation was light, you could try removing the rows of shiny black eggs on the needles and twigs over the winter. With a 40 to 50 foot tall tree, your options become more limited. For spraying, it would require the big sprayers of a tree service to reach the top of the tree with a spray application, the least toxic being an insecticidal soap or dormant oil. Another option would be applying Bayer Advanced 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control, which gets mixed with water and applied at the base of the tree. Always read and follow label directions. If you decide to use the Bayer product, I would suggest waiting until March (in Massachusetts) to make the application. If you chose a dormant oil instead, it would have to be applied by a tree service in late winter. If insecticidal soap was your choice, that application would work best in Spring while the insects are active.
Here is a PDF info sheet with photos from the University of Minnesota:
http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/Web/217WhitePineAphid.pdf

Q: I had a sweet gum tree cropped way back. There is new growth on the branches that were cut back at the end of May. But now I’ve got all the roots coming up from the ground. I cannot mow around them... I want to stop the roots from coming up above ground. How do I do that?

A: Trees are known for 2 types of fast-growing, vertical sprouts: water sprouts and suckers. Water sprouts grow from the branches, while suckers grow from roots. It sounds like you have suckers growing from the roots. Sandy has a good article about shoots from tree roots.
Sweet Gum trees are known for two major annoyances; one is the spikey gumballs they drop and the other is surface roots. Again, Sandy's Tree Tips has a good article about surface roots.
Most trees have attributes people don't like, after all, consider how many people complain about raking-up fallen leaves once a year, even after their trees have provided them with cool shade for an entire summer. It's human nature. Sweet Gums are annoying on many counts, but I still value them for their unique star-shaped leaves and that fantastic 3-level fall color shown in the photo.

A: Beech trees are some of my favorites (got 3 different purple leafed varieties). Tri-color Beech trees, as well as other Beeches, usually do look sparse and stick-like the first five years they are in. That fact alone causes many tri-colors to get planted way too close to houses. After years of waiting for the tree to get bigger, they finally have to be removed, just as they are getting nice. Like any tree that will eventually get some size to it, they should be planted at least 15 feet from a house. The Tri-color Beech in the photo went from a small whip to a specimen in about 30 years with spring fertilization, and light trimming in earlier years mostly for shape.
As far as encouraging your Beech to grow, the best you can do for the tree is to water it weekly during dry spells and fertilize it every spring to encourage new growth. Also check the underside of leaves periodically for insects, and control them as needed. Most young trees also benefit from having an area around the base of the trunk free of lawn grasses, since turf does compete with trees more than people realize. An area free of grass also gives some protection from weedeaters and lawnmowers damaging the thin bark.

A: Most Magnolias seem to be very resilient when being pruned or cutback, provided they are in good health, and not weakened by anything (like scale insects). Either method you mentioned should work if you do your cutting in spring, right before new growth starts. This will remove spring flowers of course. Follow up your pruning by fertilizing the Magnolia, according to the label instructions on whatever fertilizer product used. While most trees prefer a 2-1-1 ratio fertilizer (like a 20-10-10) most flowering plants do well with more phosphorus, as in a 1-2-1 ratio fertilizer. However, some states now have restrictions on the use of phosphorus fertilizers.

A: The old rule of thumb for trimming flowering shrubs is to always prune them within a few weeks after they finish blooming. That way you never take any flower buds off. This advice applies best to those plants that set their flower buds over the summer for next spring's bloom (like Azaleas and Rhododendrons). You have a bit more wiggle-room with Rose of Sharon (formerly labeled ALTHEA, now labeled HIBISCUS) since they form their flower buds on new growth that develops in the spring. Therefore, long story short, don't prune your Rose of Sharon after it starts putting on new growth in the spring through the bloom period in the summer. Anytime after that (fall or early spring before they push out new growth) should be fine for pruning them. The white blooming 'Diana' (in the photo) is a very striking one if you like a multitude of large, pure white blossoms, and have room for another shrub.

A: Depending on the extent of the cicada damage, some smaller twigs may die back from the "slitting" damage (from egg laying) while larger branches may have enough remaining tissue on their circumference for them to maintain adequate structural strength and survive until the branches can put on some new growth. You'll almost have to judge each branch individually as you are trimming, or wait until next spring and determine which branches are putting on good new growth, and which ones are struggling. It may not be necessary to remove entire branches, instead pruning off only the damaged areas. Always prune a branch back to a bud pointing in the direction you would like new growth to go. These are almost always the "outward facing" buds.

A: Upon closer examination you should be able to spot exit holes if your trees are infested with borers. These would resemble holes you might make if you drilled into the tree with an electric drill, but they aren't always round holes. The exit holes of Bronze Birch Borer and the deadly Emerald Ash Borer (photo on left) that is leaving a trail of death down through the upper midwest, are both "D" shaped holes. The bark of ash trees gets kind of roughed-up looking around these borer holes. Most borers are considered an insect you prevent instead of "cure." Both ash and birch trees are now being preventatively treated with Bayer's Tree & Shrub Insect Control, which advertises 12-month effectiveness against labeled insects. Always read the label and follow the instructions. It is important to identify what type of trees you have prior to treatment with an insecticide.

Your agricultural cooperative extension professionals at North Carolina State should be able to assist you with that, and answer any additional questions. NC State may even have an extension office in your county. You could have carpenter ants working in the heartwood of your trees. Ants aren't usually present unless the outer bark of a tree has been compromised or there are some dead branch stubs to ease their entry into the heartwood.
(The photo on the right shows extensive damage to heartwood from carpenter ants)

EAB UPDATE:
April 2010 - Emerald Ash Borer has now been detected in 13 US states and 2 Canadian provinces, tracked in this order: Michigan 2002, Ontario 2002, Ohio 2003, Indiana 2004, Illinois 2006, Maryland 2006, Pennsylvania 2007, West Virginia 2007, Missouri 2008, Quebec 2008, Virginia 2008 (originally 2003), Wisconsin 2008, Minnesota 2009, Kentucky 2009, New York 2009.

A: It sounds like we may be dealing with a couple different issues here. When I hear “maple” and “dripping sap” in the same sentence, the first things that come to mind are aphids and ants. Aphids (“ph” in aphids pronounced like “f”) are small sucking insects that remove sugary sap (honey dew... the other kind) and inhabit mostly branch tips. Since they remove an excess amount of sugary sap, ants co-habitate with them, creating a symbiotic relationship. Ants get the extra sugar, and in turn, the ants move the aphids around to the best feeding points on the tree, usually the succulent new growth. If you have ever parked your car under a tree like this, you’ll get that sticky drip all over the paint and windows. If you see ants busy going up and down a maple trunk, this is usually the problem. The solution is to get rid of the aphids by having the tree professionally sprayed or by using an insecticide like Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Care (Read and follow label instructions). Large trees may be hard to properly treat due to their size.
   
Another aspect of this problem with dripping honeydew is that collects on leaves and stems, becoming very attractive to bees. This sticky substance will begin to turn black, as it grows black sooty mold. (Photo: Magnolia tree with black leaves from oyster shell scale excretions that grew sooty mold). Once you solve the source of your problem – aphids – the other problems will clear up by themselves.
  
Sapsucker damage is easy to identify since there is usually a row of holes in the tree trunk. These woodpeckers will come back on occasion for a snack on whatever insects may have moved into those holes, so they are continually reopening the same holes. While these openings in a tree trunk are not desirable, they rarely seem to cause serious damage. I haven't seen many of these holes that bleed, but it is possible that when "the sap is up" in a maple they could. I'm still guessing your main problem is aphids.

A: Most apple orchards in Pennsylvania trim their apple trees in late winter. Production apple trees are usually trimmed to encourage horizontal branches that are evenly and adequately spaced apart, sort of like rungs on a ladder (see photo). Low branches are considered desirable since they are easier to reach when it is time to pick the apples.

A: For some reason, Tri-Color Beech trees tend to get planted way too close to house foundations. Maybe it's because they look so spindly when they are first planted. Keep in mind that most foundation plantings have a 17-year lifespan, and need to be renovated periodically. Sounds like you are at the point where this tree needs to be removed. Most trees should be planted at least 12 to 15 feet away from the foundation of your house, even if they are slow-growing varieties like most Beech trees. Otherwise, plant a tree you can only enjoy for a limited number of years, knowing it will have to be replaced with a new tree in 10 to 20 years. It's always hard to cut down anything you planted, especially something as beautiful as a Beech! Photo: Tri-color Beech planted as a lawn tree 25 years earlier.

A: It sounds like your Pear might be on its way out, but you may want to give it another 9 months to see for sure. You should know which way things are going after it develops its new growth next spring. Remember not to over-fertilize Pears (with nitrogen) since they are susceptible to fire blight disease, and lush growth is more vulnerable. Fire blight makes affected leaves look scorched.

Q: I noticed one of my trees has a branch of leaves that is turning yellow. I went over and the bark is split from the base going up the tree. I am wondering if it was struck by lightning and if so, what can I do?  Is there something I should be doing, or just leave it alone.

A: Thanks for the photos Nancy, they really helped. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your tree is a Silver Maple that suffered from Southwest Sunscald one winter about 4 years ago. What is "SW Sunscald?"  During frigid winter days that are sunny, the bark on the southwest side of a tree trunk can get heated-up and split, causing this type of injury. The good news is that your tree appears to be showing good callus growth in an attempt to compartmentalize the wound, and there doesn't appear to be any bleeding or wet spot in the trunk wound.

Q: We have two 10-year-old weeping cherry trees, that do not weep, whatsoever. When we first bought them they had a dozen or so little twig branches that were weeping.  Now there are 15-20 and nothing weeps. They look gangly and sparse...what can I do to help them get healthy and can I ever get them to weep again? Fishing line, rope, something?

A: Weeping cherries are "grafted" meaning they are two different trees joined together. It is possible that the top part of your tree (the grafted "weeping branches" part) died off and the branches you are seeing are growing from the lower part of the tree. On weeping cherry trees that have both types of branches, the branches growing straight up should be removed (yellow line in photo indicates where to cut off vertical sprouts) leaving only the weeping branches in place.

Q: We have a 15 year old Bradford Pear in a neighborhood of 20-year-old Bradford Pears, they are all so healthy except ours. We lost one 10' tall one to wind last year and found that the base was rotten. We have the 15-year-old, about 30' tall, and it is dying. I inspected the base of trunk and found the same rotten bark with insects boring into the trunk. Can we save it? Why is this happening to our trees and not the neighbor's? The whole street is lined with them. Thank you.

A: Trimming Dogwoods in late summer, fall, winter or early spring will remove the flower buds that have already "set" for the next spring (these buds are shaped like Hershey kisses). That being said, it is often more important to do the trimming than miss one season's flower show. It is best NOT to trim Dogwoods during the flight of the Dogwood borer, which occurs in late spring or early summer.
Prune your tree with three basic tools depending on what size branch you are cutting. These 3 tools are hand pruners, loppers and a pruning saw. Hand pruners should be used for the smallest branches, and a pruning saw on the largest branches. Mid-sized branches can be trimmed using loppers. Make your cuts close to the remaining branch so that you don't leave a stub, but don't remove the swollen area at the base of each branch known as the "collar." On larger branches, remove most of the weight first, before making your finish cut, by cutting-off the branch 12-inches or more away from the trunk (undercut the branch 1/3 of the way through, then finish your cut from the top -- This helps prevent torn bark). Photo: "Red" flowering dogwoods tend to look pink when they bloom.

Q: About 4 months ago, my husband and I planted two pin oaks in our backyard.  We live in NW Georgia about 30 miles from Alabama. Anyway, as you know we’ve had drought conditions for a few years. One tree is fine, the other appears to be dead. We’re wondering what we should do with the one that looks dead, because there are offshoots at the bottom of the trunk that look healthy. Please advise.

A: Sounds like you "lost" your one Pin Oak, but the root system is still alive. If you want to nurse along what is left, pick the best looking sprout and train it into being your new single-leader tree. Remove the other sprouts. This wouldn't work with a grafted tree, since the root stock is a different type of tree than the top part of the tree, but it is doubtful your Pin Oak was grafted. Oaks are usually best transplanted in the Spring of the year, so if you do replace it, make plans for doing that next spring. Try to thoroughly water new trees once a week for their first year during droughts. Photo: Pin Oaks are one of the fastest growing Oaks, also forming swooping lower branches, so give them room to grow.

Q: I've had 2 estimates from reputable tree services. One recommends topping of my 5 maples, the other says they 'don't top trees - it's bad for them'. How am I to know what is right? Thanks

A: Topping of trees is an undesirable practice, especially when the trunks and branches being removed are over 4-inches in diameter. Remaining branches that large may never properly compartmentalize the wound. Also, the new growth that results from heavy cuts results in vertical sprouting ("water sprouts") which ruins the tree's natural form forever. Anyone with a chainsaw can top a tree, and it takes much less time, but it takes a professional arborist to properly reduce tree size without topping. Most trees that need topped should be removed with the stump ground-out, then a new tree planted to replace them. One topping leads to many more toppings in the years to come, often every few years. Super-fast growing Silver Maples are the most-topped trees in the Northeastern US. Try to plant trees that will be the right size, in the right place. Many homeowners inherit these problem trees from their predecessors. Photo: Each 'topped' branch now has multiple vertical sprouts, ruining the tree's natural form forever.

A: That hard white mold you describe sounds like a fungus growing on the decaying stump. Another symptom you will often see from decaying underground tree parts are "fairy rings" which expand outward and kill lawn grasses behind the ring. The solution to these problems is having tree stumps and major roots ground-out with a stump grinder when a tree is removed. Unfortunately, many Silver Maples grow so large that it becomes a major job (and expense) to grind all of the stump, let alone a majority of the roots. All the same, your neighbor could still rent a stump grinder and attempt the task, or contract with a stump grinding service.

A: It's not uncommon for bindings around tree trunks to become constricting before they are noticed, so at least you noticed your problem, hopefully in time. Unfortunately, commercial plantings around businesses and apartment complexes seem to rarely get checked for this developing problem one year after new plantings are installed, and we've seen many trees die from 'girdling' by support wires and synthetic ropes.
Without a photo (our file photo on right) it is impossible to know how deep your rope has cut into the bark, but I would suggest using a box cutter or snips to cut the constricting rope in one place, just to relieve the tension. If the rope isn't very deep into the bark it can be removed, but don't cause excessive bark damage just to remove the rope. Relieving the tautness of the girdling rope may be enough to save your tree.

A: Sounds like a classic case of freeze damage, as you suspected. The lower portion that survived may have been insulated by snow around the base of the tree. Your best bet would be to cut-off the dead top just above a living side branch. Slant your cut to encourage water runoff.
If you want to turn your tree back into a single-leader tree instead of letting it remain a bush, select one of the best side branches near the top and train it upright to become the new leader. This can be done using something like an old yard stick or heavy dowel rod that is several feet long. You'll be using that stick or rod like a "splint" wrapping the lower portion around the existing tree trunk and the upper portion around the side branch. It may be impossible to get the side branch completely vertical without snapping it off, so don't overdo it. Check your wrappings each month to make sure they aren't constricting the trunk or the branch "in training." After a year or so, the side branch will stay in the upright position on its own and become the new tree top. Keep in mind that if this tree isn't hardy in your area, it could freeze back again during future winter cold snaps.

A: I'm guessing this splitting-out created a large open wound in the trunk of the tree where some branches were previously located. There may not be much you can do to restore the tree if the damage is significant, but you can still follow some basics by removing any damaged branches or branch stubs, and cutting loose bark back to where it is firmly attached. TreeBoss does not recommend sealing large open trunk wounds with paint.

A: If indeed these trees are lifting your house and damaging surrounding property, you may have to break your rule of not downing trees and whack `em. Once a tree is removed that has roots that continue to sprout, you need to stay vigilant and keep removing any new shoots that appear. Eventually the roots will weaken and die. If you decide to use herbicides to kill the shoots and roots faster, check with your local garden center for the appropriate product to use in your area. Always read and follow label instructions.

A: You mentioned two troublesome symptoms with your tree: an area that is bleeding (wetwood) and fresh sawdust. Ongoing bleeding is a sure sign of disease, and you named two of the likely culprits for sawdust: termites and carpenter ants... borers would be the third. You didn't mention what kind of tree it is, so it is impossible to make specific recommendations.

Carpenter ant damage

A: The old saying is to trim trees "anytime the saw is sharp." While this applies in most cases, there are some trees that shouldn't be trimmed at certain times of the year. Oaks shouldn't be trimmed April thru October due to the prevalence of Oak Wilt disease pathogens, and Dogwoods shouldn't be trimmed in spring while their nemesis, the Dogwood borer, is active. To avoid the "drip" of freshly trimmed Maples, they should be trimmed while fully leafed out. TreeBoss isn't aware of any limiting factors or specific timing requirements when it comes to trimming a  Honeylocust.

A: You didn't mention where you live, but most Ash trees in the north central US (Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania and surrounding states) are now subject to being totally wiped out by the Emerald Ash Borer. Perhaps your Ash was already infested and is making its comeback attempt. Affected Ashes will reveal themselves with dieback in the crown of the tree, and bark on the trunk exhibiting "D"-shaped exit holes from the EAB. If it is an Ash, you are probably best off to remove it and plant a hardier and more desirable species. To answer your other question in a more general sense, I would go with culturing one root sucker, assuming the tree isn't grafted (the roots and trunk belong to the same original tree).

A: "Topping" trees to reduce their height always presents risks, but it may be a much more acceptable risk than you over-reaching from precarious ladders and scaffolding set-ups. You didn't mention your age, but falls have proven to be the beginning of the end for many senior citizens. If you were to purchase a lightweight pole pruner (TreeBoss uses one with 6-foot fiberglas pole sections that lock together, with a lightweight pruning head on top pulled by a rope to activate the cutter) you could do your trimming with your feet planted firmly on the ground. A second alternative to topping the trees would be hiring a landscaper or arborist to trim your White Pines every June. If you are forced into topping your trees, try to make your topping cut just above a "whorl" of side branches while leaving as little of a trunk stub protruding above the branches as possible. Slant your cut slightly if possible, to promote rain water runoff. This will definitely ruin the shape of your pines for several years, making them look "flat-topped." (sheared White Pine in accompanying photo)

A: Your bark splitting could be caused by a few different things: 
1. It could be some sort of a canker disease causing the splitting.
2. If it is occurring on the southwest side of the tree, it might be caused by "southwest sunscald" which is due to a strong winter sun heating up the bark on a frigid day and causing the splitting due to a temperature difference. You didn't mention if the wound is bleeding (wet) or not.
3. Weedwhackers are also problematic when they are used around the base of trees, damaging the bark and causing basal wounds on trees that open them up to various destructive pathogens. Try to keep grass away from your tree trunk by using mulch or hand-pulling any weeds.
If you have a digital photo of your bark split, please send it, as photos always help with any distant diagnosis. You didn't say what state you live in, but you might also consider taking advantage of your state's land grant university's agricultural cooperative extension service as a great source of local information.

A: Thank you for the photo, they always help answer these sorts of questions. It looks like your pine has a "needle cast" disease, not sure which one. You can send a sample to Rutgers for ID and control suggestions. See the bottom of page 3 on this PDF fact sheet from your state's land grant university, Rutgers.

Here is the URL for their diagnostic clinic – they do charge – but it's worth finding out which disease it is and follow any actions that can be taken:
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/plantdiagnosticlab/

A note to other readers: Every state in the U.S. has a land grant university with a wide array of agricultural support services available for residents. I would encourage use of them (most are free of charge) and then remind your state legislators how valuable these agricultural extension services are to all of us. TreeBoss

A: Believe it or not, most tree roots are in the top 12 to 18 inches of the soil. This becomes more obvious to people when they see a tree that has blown over, like the evergreen in the photo. Most residential utility lines (like water and gas) are usually buried several feet deep, but depth can vary. Telephone lines are more likely to be shallower, but it also varies from house to house. The lines we encounter most often when digging are cable TV, electric dog fences and lamp post wires.
Silver Maple roots are often an issue with older sewer lines that were constructed using terra cotta pipe, the type with the "bell" ends. Roots often find their way into those pipes through leaky joints and will completely clog them eventually, leading to sewer line excavation and replacement. Newer sewer lines use plastic pipe with water-tight glued joints, so we rarely see root clogging issues with them.
Rights of Way: The planting location of trees may be most important as it relates to existing rights of way within what appears to be all your property. A good example would be the street in front of a house, often times being a 50 foot rights of way. Therefore, if the paved street is only 25 feet wide, the actual rights of way extends another 12½ feet into your front lawn from the curb. If your municipality ever decided to widen the street, or add a sidewalk, anything planted in that area would be subject to removal. The same would apply to trees planted in a rights of way for any other major utility line running through your property, if that line has to be excavated, you will lose your trees. Major gas line rights of ways are kept clear of trees, since windthrow could cause the line to be ruptured. Therefore, it is best not to plant in any rights of way, or too close to overhead lines, since your utility company may have the right to prune (or remove) trees without your permission.

A: Knocking sounds, especially in the night, aren't a good sign, so you were smart to remove the tree. It sounds like you want a high-branched tree that you can see under, while also having one that provides shade in a narrow place. That puts us into the category of columnar trees -- those that grow fairly tall yet have a narrow growth form. There are three columnar trees that come to mind: Armstrong Maple, Columnar Hornbeam and Columnar Oak. We've found that Columnar Hornbeams do best in locations that aren't too hot and dry (like those with extensive pavement around them). An Armstrong Maple would grow a bit faster than the Columnar Oak.

A: Even though we don't often see it on weeping cherry trees, some ornamental cherries can produce fruit, like Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula.’ Those cherry trees with single blossoms (that retain their stamens and pistils) are more likely to produce fruit than double-flowered types (the second ring of petals replaces the stamens and pistils). The University of Arkansas rates the toxicity of plants here. These fruits are listed there as being generally considered non-toxic to humans.

A: In many cases, it's not so much of planting the right tree as not planting the wrong tree. Sure, that sounds like double-talk, but most problems are caused by a relatively small number of trees. From my experience, I'll narrow my list to two trees:
#1 - Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum) causes more maintenance and service calls than any other tree I have come across. Why do people plant them? Because they are fast growing and provide quick shade. That is where the benefits end, since they soon become too big and form dangerous "V" crotches, while their roots are busy clogging older terra-cotta style sanitary sewer lines. To deal with their size, tree owner's often compound their problem by having them 'topped' instead of just removing them and planting a more desirable tree. Silver Maples are very surface rooted.
#2 - Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford') is what looks like a great tree during its first 15 to 20 years of growth; white flowers, glossy green leaves and a neat shape. However, rapid growth and weak "V" crotches set this tree up for wind storm or ice damage just about the time they are really looking good. 'Cleveland Select' is a better variety to plant if you still desire a flowering pear.
Roots: Most tree roots are within the top 12 to 18 inches of the soil surface, but surface rooted trees like Maples, become more objectionable in lawn areas as trees age. I wouldn't necessarily avoid planting all Maples for this reason, since the fall color of varieties like 'Red Sunset' can be hard to beat, and the burgundy summer color of 'Crimson King' is classic. Oaks are deeper rooted trees, and while Pin Oak is usually the most commonly planted lawn Oak, you would probably find it's swooping lower branches a problem eventually. For a stately Oak, my favorite is still Red Oak, but large trees need more of a park like setting with plenty of room and time to grow. Other long term investment trees are the Beech family, purple-leaf, tri-color, fernleaf and weeping, just to name a few.
Choices: Other issues to consider when planting and placing trees in your condo area would be whether or not they are "messy" trees that drop twigs, seeds, spent flowers or fruit. Avoid trees with recurring disease and insect problems by looking for 'resistant' varieties. An example would be planting River Birch instead of European White Birch, since it has natural immunity to the birch borer. Crabapples are very popular for their spring color and winter fruit, but many varieties have considerable disease issues, so make your selections carefully. 'Snowdrift' is still one of my favorite white crabs.
Evergreens: As much as I love White Pines in the right place, they are overused in commercial plantings in many areas and become too much for property owners to handle, since they grow 3-feet a year without timely candle pruning every June. For an evergreen with more compact growth that requires less trimming, and whitetail deer resistance as well, the Colorado or Norway Spruce is an option.
Summary: Plant a mixture of trees so you aren't wiped-out by one blight or insect infestation. Allow trees room to grow by only planting smaller varieties near buildings. Use 'improved varieties' when possible. Plant container grown trees carefully by slicing circling roots, and remove all bindings from root balls and trunks that won't decay. Establish a tree inventory with a monitoring and maintenance program for the coming years, and then practice preventive maintenance, just like you would with your automobile. Water young trees weekly during droughts. Find a reputable nurseryman in your area who can visit your condo property and make specific tree planting recommendations for your climate and location. Also locate an arborist who knows how to properly prune trees (not just run a chainsaw) and have him perform periodic pruning as the trees age.

A: Sometimes squirrels and rodents manage to plant acorns in the wrong spot, and this would be one of them. I would definitely remove the tree since it is so close to your foundation and will never cohabitate well. (Imagine the 'Mighty Oak' in the photo growing next to your window) The least expensive way to get rid of this oak is using a small pruning saw -- we like the folding-type pruning saws that lock open, and fold-up small enough to fit in your back pocket. We prefer the Felco 60 folding saw (with a 6-inch blade) that costs around $20). These are small yet mighty tools, and very sharp, so be careful.
Begin by cutting down the tree that is currently there. Since it is over head height, it would be best to remove individual branches first (you could even use pruning loppers for many of these), then cut the trunk down in sections. Cutting the tree into 3-foot lengths will also make it easier to bundle and dispose of, possibly with your curbside trash pickup. Check the tree stump every two weeks for any re-growth and continue to remove all sprouts. Eventually the tree and stump will fade away due to depleted energy reserves.
If you go further and attempt to remove the stump, it would require some tedious hand-digging or stump grinding in tight spaces. Those would be more expensive jobs best left to professionals. You need to locate your private and public utility lines (gas line, water line, electric, sprinkler lines, etc) before any stump removal work is done.

A: Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is a warm weather plant native to southern latitudes and doesn't like frost or any sort of cold temperatures in the 30-degree F. range or below. Therefore, Zone 11 would be your answer.

A: You did the best thing you could, repot the seedlings, water them in, and hope for the best. You should know the final outcome by June. Keep them watered but don't overwater them and kill them with kindness. I've seen wildlife, like squirrels, do similar uprooting work in my own yard. Also, some animals are drawn to organic fertilizers placed in the root zone of plants, especially those planted close to a woodsline or natural area. In the chance that yours were uprooted by wildlife, you may want to protect them in some fashion.
We'll call my accompanying photo "Garden Lockdown"

A: This type of bark damage is usually caused by rabbits or other small rodents like mice, often under the protection of snow cover. I see this type of chewing most often on Burning Bush and have included a photo below of similar, but much less severe damage. This is one reason it is not recommended to mulch up around tree trunks. The first nurseryman I worked for in the early 70's had the economical solution of having his daughters wrap tree trunks over winter with several layers of newspaper. These days, there are white plastic spiral covers that you can place around tree trunks to protect them from this sort of damage, plus you can always install a basic hoop of hardware mesh around the trunk for winter protection. Plan for snow accumulation since rabbits and rodents may be chewing at an elevated height due to snow depth.

In your already-gnawed-off case, about all you can really do is cross your fingers. It wouldn't hurt, but also won't help much, to place some of those spiral protectors around the lower trunks of those trees for some protection from sun and wind. They have holes in them to provide ventilation. Hopefully the chewing wasn't deep enough to destroy the phloem and cambium, since the damage covers the entire circumference and could effectively 'girdle' your trees. Be aware that your trees may give you false hope by leafing-out this spring, but then collapsing when they can't get food reserves back down to their roots through the phloem. You'll know for sure by mid-July. If the trees do survive, it goes without saying that some sort of protection will be in order for subsequent winters. Good luck!

A: The fungus is so bad it even changed its name.... Sphaeropsis sapinea was formerly Diplodia pinea. Seriously though, it does affect Austrian Pines and I frequently see it on Scotch Pines (photo on right - often grown as cut Christmas trees). Older trees that are well fertilized with nitrogen are most susceptible, and wet weather favors splashing of this pathogen's spores throughout the tree, with lower branches usually succumbing first. As with many other destructive plant diseases and insects, weakened trees are the most susceptible.
Like many other destructive plant fungi, control measures are directed at protecting new growth. For Austrian Pines, this is a 2-week period during, and immediately following spring bud break (April-May depending on your geographic region). Here's a link to Penn State's page on Sphaeropsis (Diplodia) Tip Blight with specific product recommendations, which you will need to compare with registered products in Canada. Always read and follow label directions.
Finally, trees should not be pruned during highly susceptible periods. If and when deadwood is removed, pruners and saws should be disinfested with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol between cuts. Avoid planting young 2 and 3 needled pines in the vicinity of your Austrian Pine. (Note: Eastern White Pine - Pinus strobus - is a 5-needled pine)

Q: I have a mature red oak multi trunk tree with three trunks that create a reservoir in the middle that holds water. I have tried to “wick” the water out with a rope, but not sure how successful that is in the long run. The tree provides our house with shade from a western exposure. I do not know how deep the reservoir is but would guess it is about 12”.

A: It's interesting to note that I've probably seen more multiple-trunked Red Oaks (Quercus rubra) than any other variety of Oak tree. People usually think of a "clump Birch" when they think of multiple tree trunks (photo on left). While your case creates an unusual situation with water ponding in the junction of the three trunks, it's not necessarily going to threaten the health of the tree, provided the outer bark is intact on each trunk and still showing healthy new growth in that area (as opposed to an open trunk cavity that exposes the heartwood). Removing the water is probably still a good idea, especially for mosquito control, but try not to damage the bark.
Attempting to fill that area with any sort of material may actually make matters worse. Tree cavities have traditionally been filled with solid material, but of course, the outer bark grows around that material, eventually compartmentalizing it. In your case, any sort of solid material would be outside that same bark, restricting growth and potentially increasing the length of the wet period.

Q: Can I "top" a Norfolk Pine without killing it? It has grown to 10 feet tall which is right at my ceiling, and it has no more room for growth.  I've had it for a long time and hate the thought of having to toss it out. However if I can't top it I have no other choice, because I'm not cutting a hole in my ceiling. Terry

A: I think you have a pretty good handle on what needs to be done if you plan to keep your Norfolk Island Pine indoors: 1) cut a hole in the ceiling, or 2) top the tree.
I would suggest using a sharp set of hand pruners (similar to what you would cut roses with) since the tree tissue may be difficult to cut with any lighter weight hand tools. To play it safe by not spreading pathogens with your pruners, you can disinfest the blades of your hand pruners with isopropyl rubbing alcohol first. You can buy a small inexpensive bottle at your local pharmacy. Read the label.
Your pruning cut should be made directly above the top whorl of branches, so you don't leave a stub protruding upward. It's not necessary to dress the wound with any pruning paint. Your Norfolk Pine will probably attempt to initiate new growth from around the pruned area on top, so you will need to prune off new growth as it appears in order to maintain the trees new height

A: Believe it or not, this isn't the first time TreeBoss has fielded this question! Last year a family in Florida sent me the same question and included the photo on the left. It's easy to see why this phenomenon tricks people into thinking their Christmas trees have a second life. Eight weeks after Christmas you would expect your cut Christmas tree to be turning brown, not sprouting new growth! Especially when you consider that most trees are cut and shipped before Thanksgiving. Unfortunately, the answer is the same, that new growth sprouted due to stored energy in the branches and buds. Cut Christmas trees don't have any way to sustain life without roots. On the bright side, look at the extended period of time your family has had to enjoy this evergreen tree. You could always buy a B&B tree next year if you wanted one to plant outside, but there are additional considerations: 1) the tree will be heavier to move and should only stay indoors for two weeks, and 2) it will have to be a variety of tree that grows in your area. For more information on planting live B&B Christmas trees, see Planting a Christmas Tree.

A: Various trees are known for the high value of their saw logs, and Black Walnut is definitely one of them. The ideal scenario for most commercial timber is long sections of straight trunk, free of cavities, knots, and nails. The standard for pine used to be 16-foot long saw logs that could be easily cut into 16-foot board lengths. On more valuable wood like walnut, shorter sections of trunk would probably still be desirable. The idea here, is having good, sound usable pieces of wood. Nails are bad since they can quickly ruin a large sawmill blade. Next, it has to be worth a logger's time and effort to come cut and haul away one tree. They usually contract large areas of wooded acreage and cut multiple trees, making their operations more cost-efficient.
Now to your question. I would first check with Community Forestry at Cornell University. If that doesn't work, you could then search online for a local "forestry consultant" or sawmill in your area, since they are most likely to be in touch with clients searching for timber. In the meantime, it would be an excellent idea to have all the deadwood removed from the tree, reducing the chance of injury to children playing beneath it.

Q: My family came across a tree covered in brilliant red berries when we were cleaning up broken limbs after a recent i

A: Thank you for providing TreeBoss with a good photo of the red fruit and your location, since every piece of the puzzle helps in answering these identification questions. Your tree looks like a Crabapple (Malus) with bright red fruit the birds haven't eaten yet; by spring the crabapples will probably be gone. Crabapples are most recognized for their bright blossoms in spring, but many varieties also have quite striking, colorful fruit in winter. One of my favorite "old fashioned" varieties of Crab is 'Snowdrift' with its pure white blossoms. There are also many improved crabapple "cultivars" (cultivated varieties) available, selected for their resistance to 3 common Crabapple disease problems: apple scab, fireblight and cedar-apple rust. Overall, I've found crabapples to be hardy, strong growers in the landscape.

A: Even if you could reattach this branch to the tree Coach, it is very doubtful this major branch would be able to restore itself to a natural state with good strength, since bark would have to compartmentalize completely around the torn area. Your best bet is removing the broken branch as cleanly as possible, without leaving a stub or any loose bark.
How-to photo: First get the weight off the limb. Undercut the broken branch first at #1, then cut down from the top at #2. Watch the cutoff branch doesn't bounce back and "spear" the trunk. Now that most of the weight is off you can make your "surgical" cuts. Undercut the remaining stub first at #3 and then finish your cut at #4. Clean-up any loose edges. Be very careful not to damage any of the healthy shoots or remaining bark while doing your tree surgery. If you like, you can paint the exposed edge of healthy bark (1/4-inch wide area around the open area) with orange shellac, but don't paint the entire open trunk area with anything. The good news is River Birch are fast growers and you may forget this even happened in another 5 years.

A: No one understands better than you the issues of having a large tree close to your house, especially with things like encroaching branches, leaves and tree debris in gutters, and the fear of collapsing your house's foundation. Sycamore (London Plane Tree) is known as a "messy" tree that drops quite a bit of debris in addition to leaves, most notably its "button ball" seeds and exfoliating bark (see photo). If you have the space available, it is best to plant large trees at least 15-feet away from your house. Sycamores love moist areas, typically growing along streams and creeks in the wild.

A: Whether you have 'fruitless' plum trees or another variety of tree, it is always a good idea to remove water sprouts. Water sprouts are those fast growing shoots that grow straight up, unlike the rest of the 'normal' branches on a tree. On top-grafted trees, these sorts of sprouts often originate below the graft, with weeping cherry trees being a good example. I would suggest waiting until the start of the growing season, as your plums begin to leaf out, to remove these water sprouts.

A: Since the Chinaberry tree (Melia azedarach) has a fragrant flower, you will want to do your trimming immediately after the tree blooms.
When: By always trimming flowering trees (and shrubs) within a couple weeks after they are done blooming, you ensure that next year's flower show won't be interrupted. When many flowering plants are trimmed too late in the season, the flower buds for next year are removed, and much of the bloom can be lost.
How: As with other trees, trimming should be prioritized as follows:  1) Remove dead or broken branches.  2) Remove crossing branches - those that rub other branches - leaving the branch in the best growing position.  3) To reduce the overall size of the tree, trim branch tips back to side branches that are growing outward from the trunk, without leaving any stubs.  4) Comments: When removing major branches, be sure to leave the branch "collar" (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk) intact without leaving a stub. (The photo shows where to make your cut when removing a dead branch stub) Trees have natural defense mechanisms within this collar area. You can read more about pruning on the tree trimming page under the heading "Trimming trees in the right place." Do not paint the cuts unless doing so for aesthetic reasons.

A: You are now a charter member of the TreeBoss Cult, so I'll answer your question with a question: If a tree falls in the woods and no one hears it, does it make a sound?
Now, on to your questions.... Yes, poor air circulation around a house can lead to problems, more than just the run-of-the-mill leaves in the gutters every fall. Whatever you can do to improve air circulation and sunlight will surely help matters with your house in that regard.
When it comes to selecting an arborist, look beyond price and choose one who knows how to selectively trim, instead of a mad-topper who only knows how to top and hack. By the sounds of your suburban lot, selective thinning of trees and branches will help maintain the overall aesthetics while still accomplishing your purpose. If your budget can't handle the entire job right away, ask the arborist how he would suggest phasing his work into stages over the next few years.
Trimming the tall giants: Since these tree trunks probably resemble straight, narrow utility poles (like the tree in the photo), some charlatans might want to climb them with tree gaffs -- those sharp metal spikes attached to work boots, like utility workers use to climb poles. The ONLY time gaffs should be used for climbing a tree is when the tree is going to be completely removed.
Finally, you asked about prices for tree removal, so I would suggest getting three bids from reputable, insured tree services in your area, then choosing the one you feel will do the job safely and efficiently. When you remove trees, always remove the stumps and budget for filling those stump holes in with topsoil. This will complete the job.

A: Good to hear you are planting trees for all the right reasons! Many plants can be grown from cuttings, but for your project I would suggest planting seeds (acorns and walnuts for two of the tree varieties you mentioned) or purchasing small, inexpensive transplants from a seedling nursery. By planting seeds you won't get a true "clone," but if the squirrels in our area are any indication, your success rate will be very high when planting walnuts. If your camp is in a wooded area, you'll want to make sure to protect your young trees from some of that same wildlife you wish to feed, namely deer that love to browse off young seedlings, and rabbits that chew off bark. Your tree protection doesn't have to be quite as well engineered as the accompanying photo.
As far as apple trees, the best varieties are usually "grafted," meaning the top of a good apple producing variety is physically attached to a hardier root system. Look for varieties of apple trees with the least amount of disease problems, such as apple scab. Your trees should be planted where they get plenty of sunlight. Regular care will require watering them until they are well established, and you will also need to keep weeds cleared around them so they don't compete for light, water and nutrients.

A: An onsite inspection by a qualified arborist offers far more value than what I might offer from thousands of miles away. That being said, I'll offer a few comments on your situation. Trees like maple (heaving the sidewalk in the photo), honey locust and sweet gum are naturally surface rooted, so it doesn't have much to do with lack of water. Besides, living in Spokane, water shouldn't be an issue anyway, particularly not in 2008. As far as roots damaging paved surfaces, please read the question directly below this one, since it discusses the use of root barriers. Something to think about using next time around, then tree selection won't be quite as critical.
At this stage of the game, you will probably have to either tolerate the driveway damage (and potential tripping hazard) or follow your local arborist's advice by removing the trees. Root pruning is rarely a good idea and may not even be an option for these well established trees. If you do decide to remove the trees, be sure to have the arborist remove as much stump and root system as possible, so the remaining wood doesn't interfere with your newly planted trees. While considering new trees, see what varieties are planted along city boulevards in your area that have done well. Most state universities provide a list of recommended tree varieties to plant in a tree lawn where roots are constricted and pavement damage is always an issue.

Q: I need a tree that will keep a small root area to not break out our new rock wall. I live in Reno, Nevada so I do need something that will survive the winter. I was told that Reno is in Zone 6 or 7. Thank you for your time - Chris

A: When it comes to walls, their demise usually comes from an inadequate foundation, poor drainage behind them, and freeze-thaw cycles especially in soils with high clay content. That being said, it doesn't hurt to factor-in potential root problems. One approach would be to use root barriers when planting your trees. These are most often used when planting street trees that have the potential of lifting concrete sidewalks. Put simply, they are large plastic pots without bottoms in them, and they force roots to grow down instead of out. There are also linear barriers to stop root growth in a certain direction. DeepRoot is a good place to start if you want to pursue this idea.
As far as tree choices, I would first decide how tall you want your trees to grow.... 15 feet, 35 feet, 60 feet? Evergreen or deciduous? This will narrow down your choices, combined with the knowledge of your hardiness zone, as verified on the map below. While making your final tree selections it is always good to travel through local neighborhoods and talk to neighbors to see what you like. Then visit local tree nurseries to get further advice and check tree availability.

Nevada Hardiness Zones
Reno is Zone 6 or 7 according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map below.
(click on map to enlarge image)

Q: There is a beautiful mature walnut tree in the garden with bark damage from heavy machinery on one of the butresses from approximately 4 months ago- the end of the summer. Shall I get on with it now or is there a certain time of year to do it? I have not cut away the loose bark yet but it is unattached down to about ground level and to the side- roughly where my hand is.
Thank you for your interest. Moby

A: I would suggest waiting until early Spring, as the tree begins to leaf-out, to perform any surgery on the bark. You should trim the loose bark back to sound, living tissue that is still well connected. With bark that thick, you will probably need to use a large, sharp knife, or perhaps even a wood chisel. Don't cut any deeper into the underlying wood than is necessary. The edges of any living tissue should be painted with orange shellac, to help seal and disinfest the living tissue. Resist the urge to paint the large open area of trunk with anything.
Trees don't replace tissue like human beings, they compartmentalize their wounds. So the goal of this exercise is to have the surrounding bark grow back over the open wound from all sides, thereby enclosing the wound. With a wound this large, that could take 10 years or more. In the meantime, do everything you can to keep the tree vigorous.

A: Thanks for your feedback Deb. I notice that both our companies have been in the tree business for over 30 years!  Your website and others are welcome to place a link to TreeBoss.net. In turn, we will consider placing reciprocal links to quality websites like yours, especially those in landscaping or tree businesses. As far as advertising on this website, you should contact Google through their AdWords program for all the details about advertising on TreeBoss.net. Please contact me with any further questions.
Happy New Year! TreeBoss

A: Photos help TreeBoss (and website visitors) more than anything else, and yours are excellent!  These look like the interesting leaves of the Sassafras tree (Sassafras albidum). This is one of the few (only?) trees in North America that has 3 different leaf shapes; single lobed, double lobed (resembling a mitten) and triple lobed. Most parts of the tree are aromatic when crushed. Judging from your 2nd photo, not shown here, you have a very large specimen of the tree.
Sassafras is probably most famous for the tea once made from its roots, but that is now considered a health risk in many circles, so do further homework on this topic. Also, before you decide to make tea from the tree roots, be sure to verify my identification with a local arborist, forester or Michigan State University extension agent.

Q: How far up should I trim the branches off my two Washington Hawthorn trees? Dan

A: Washington Hawthorn (Crateagus phaenopyrum) is best known for its profuse bright red fruit in winter, as well as its white flowers in spring.... and who among "the initiated" can forget those thorns! The tree also has a nice, varied fall coloration of scarlet, orange and purple. The tree can either be trained as a single stem or multi-stemmed tree, your choice.

IF you desire single-stemmed Hawthorns, I have indicated where to make your cuts in the two accompanying photos. I would suggest waiting until April (in Michigan) to make these cuts, after new growth has begun. The 3-stemmer would be the best one to leave as a multi-stemmed tree if you decide to have "one of each." In the case of your "Y-shaped" tree, it is usually desirable with any tree to pick the strongest stem (or the one in the best growing position) as your "leader" and remove the second leader. Why? Y-shaped crotches are weaker when ice, snow and strong winds strike.

A: Judging from your photos, I would guess you have a handsome specimen of the Carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua). Carob trees are most common in warm temperate countries like those surrounding the Mediterranean, since the tree has the ability to withstand hot, humid coastal areas. In the United States, you find them growing in California, Arizona, and of course in your case, Texas.  Carobs belong to the Legume family, meaning they are able to fix nitrogen from the air into the soil, similar to the Black Locust tree (Robinia pseudoacacia) which is widespread in the northern U.S.
Another common name for the Carob is St. John’s bread, due to the pods having some religious history with John the Baptist. Carob also has some significance in other religions, being used in juice or eaten as dried fruit. Carob is also used as a chocolate substitute, and the seeds in the pods are often called locust beans. However, I would not eat any of the seeds until you make a positive identification of your tree, and then do some further research on proper preparation of the seeds to make sure they are edible.

A: Fresh wood chips will rob nitrogen from the soil during the wood decay process, so it is advisable to apply some nitrogen fertilizer to counteract that reaction. Nitrogen is the first number on a fertilizer bag. Keep fertilizer away from direct contact with the tree trunk or plant stem. (Even if you compost your wood chips before using them as mulch, they will still require some nitrogen for the decay process but not quite as much).   
Maple chips may cause a slightly alkaline reaction with the soil, while the pine chips may be slightly acidic. Following that line of reasoning, the pine chips would be better around acid loving plants and the maple chips would be best around plants preferring a "sweeter" (more alkaline) soil.   
When mulching trees, keep the mulch back a couple inches from tree trunks so that you don't encourage the hidden activity of bark chewing rodents, or hold too much moisture next to the tree's bark. It's my belief that one to two inches of mulch depth is sufficient, while some experts call for up to four inches. It's definitely a case where too much is worse than not enough. Repeated heavy mulching can lead to mulch build-up, so allow time for mulch to breakdown before automatically adding more mulch.

A: You are probably referring to the SANDBOX TREE (Hura crepitans). Click here for an offsite webpage with photos. Your husband has a good name for the pods, sections of which have been used to make jewelry. Some call it 'Dynamite Tree' due to the sound of exploding pods, with reports of seeds flying the length of a football field. In furniture, the tree's wood is called Hura.
  

A: If you trim your Dogwood now (November) you should be aware that you will remove some of next spring's blossoms. Trimming a Dogwood is similar to trimming other trees; remove the deadwood first, then remove the crossing or rubbing branches. If the overall size of the tree needs reduced, cut branches back to a good side branch growing outward.
  

Cornus florida

Do not trim Dogwoods in the spring while the dogwood borer is active, since you may attract this destructive insect. If you are spraying your Dogwood to protect it against the borer, an insecticide labeled for that use should be applied to the trunk and major branches in spring, usually May in the northeastern US. If your Dogwood already has borer damage, you will see "D" shaped exit holes in the trunk
  
Dogwoods should be "sited" properly when they are first planted -- they prefer partial shade as you can see from where they grow in nature -- and are 3-times more likely to be affected by the borer if planted in full sun. In managed landscapes, be certain to protect a Dogwood's trunk from lawnmower bumps and stringline trimmer damage. Don't overfertilize your tree or overwater it, but remember that most woody ornamentals benefit from a thorough weekly watering during periods of hot, dry weather.
  

Cornus kousa

The Kousa Dogwood -- Cornus kousa -- is generally considered more hardy than the more commonly planted Cornus florida. Kousa blooms later, usually in June. One popular cultivar is 'Milky Way.'
  
More: My former Penn State entomology professor has a great web page Dogwood borers.
  

A: The first thing you should do with any young tree is remove any "conflicting" branches, those that crossover each other, or grow inward toward the trunk instead of outward. If you have to decide between two branches, try to leave the one in the best spacing and position.
  
Next remove all water sprouts, which are those branches that grow straight up. Also remove any suckers, those vertical growing sprouts coming off the roots or base of the tree.
  
If these steps haven't adequately thinned the tree, select some addition branches around the interior of the tree for removal, so that wind can pass through the tree more easily. If wind can pass through the tree, instead of the branches and leaves acting like the unfurled sail on a boat, it will be much more likely to survive strong summer storms, unlike the pear tree in the photo.

Finally, "head back" the branch tips of the tree in order to create a more even outline and reduce the overall size of the tree by 10 to 20%. Bradford Pears are also undone by the weight of ice toward the end of branches, so "heading back" a Bradford every year or two may help keep it from splitting-out, by allowing the branch strength and thickness to catch up to the rapid outward growth. If feasible, trim branches just above an outward growing side branch, in order to direct new growth in the right direction (away from the trunk).
  
The "V-shaped" crotches formed by Bradford Pears are the basis of their downfall, since a V shaped crotch is much weaker structurally than a 90-degree crotch. Combine the weak structure with rapid growth and you have the formula for eventual disaster. Anything you can do to reduce the leverage created by long branches will help.
   
Trimming your Pears right after they bloom in the spring will help preserve the flower show for the following spring. Pears take to pruning very well since they are so vigorous. Watch using too much fertilizer on them (they probably don't need any to begin with) since they are subject to a bacterial disease known as "fire blight."
  

Q: I live in the UK and have a honey locust (thorny kind) tree.  Last summer the leaves appeared quite late and dropped quickly in Autumn, but the tree appeared healthy.  This year it was slow to come into leaf and many of the branches appear to have died.  The main trunk is sending out new shoots, but the dead branches are brittle and fall off the tree when windy.  I cannot find any evidence of fungus or boring beetles.  Can you suggest any other cause of the demise of the tree as it is clearly dying.  We have not had any serious drought within the last two years but have had two very wet summers in a row. Emma

A: Honey Locust trees are generally a very hardy sort, even recommended for urban conditions with higher levels of pollution. We have worked with the thornless honey locust tree for a number of years and only observed one major problem with them, that being the Mimosa Webworm.

Thornless Honey Locust

This sort of insect damage causes areas of the tree's leaves to brown-out prematurely, and you can usually observe webbing on the leaves similar to spider webs. There are a few other insects that attack the tree, but the webworm is the most common. See this page for photos of the symptoms: http://www.treeboss.net/Mimosa-Webworm.htm 
Other than that, we have to play detective and try to remember if anything unusual has happened in the area of the tree over the past few years? Are there any wounds or openings in the tree's bark, or any "bleeding?" Has the root system been disturbed?
  
Emma's Reply: Mimosa webwork pics do not resemble what has happened to my tree, however all the leaves have dropped off and been disposed of now.  18 months ago we have a new perimeter fence put around the property and employed professionals to uproot several hawthorn trees very close to the honey locust so it is possible there could have been some disturbance to the roots.
  
TreeBoss: You may have answered your own question... that timing seems to directly relate to the beginning of your troubles. Other than reducing water uptake abilities, any cutting or wounding of tree roots helps provide a ready access point for various destructive fungi. Also see this page on fence installation under a tree.

Q: How can I winterize my evergreen trees?  Last winter they developed brown needles on one side and it took all season for them to start looking good again.

A: Evergreens exposed to northwest winter winds can experience windburn. You have a couple options for protecting them. The first would be to place a barrier 12-inches or so away from the tree to help shield it from winter winds. You will often see burlap or landscape fabric used for this purpose, and it is usually attached to and supported by wooden stakes. This sort of barrier will also help protect plants near a highway from airborne de-icer mist, kicked-up by passing vehicles on wet roadways.
Another option is to spray your evergreens with an anti-dessicant like WILT-PRUF. This milky colored spray solution dries to shiny clear and helps prevent moisture loss (dessication). It may need to be applied more than once to remain effective, so be sure to read and follow label directions on use. This product also works great on Christmas greens by improving their overall appearance and prolonging their fresh looks.
Finally, it is beneficial for all evergreens to enter winter with ample moisture in their root zones. By giving your evergreens a thorough watering before the ground freezes, you will help ensure that they have sufficient soil moisture to draw upon through the winter.
  

Branch stubs like these may or may not support the weight of a climber.

2nd Q: I think I’m going to attempt the “tree paint” solution. I found a can of it at HD. Do you think this will keep the branch there for (about) the life of the tree or will the branch still decay and fall off?
  
2nd A: Hard to say what the eventual outcome will be. I don't think you even said what kind of tree it is. Sometimes branch stubs just dry up instead of rotting, but they could become brittle in the process. Over time, dead branch stubs will increase the risk of a tree climber falling.
  

Helicopter seed or Samara

There are scores of Maple tree varieties so it is difficult to know which ones you are talking about, but it sounds like the Maple that "doesn't like to be trimmed" might be Japanese Maple, with many varieties having red leaves throughout the summer (not to be confused with the crimson colored leaves of 'Crimson King').
  

Red laceleaf Japanese maple	'Crimson King' maple

If your Maple needs to be trimmed, then you don't really have much choice. Try to trim it in the Spring of the year when it has the most time to close over pruning wounds and grow some foliage back.
  

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